Main Cliff 

I have received word that the cliff closure has been lifted! We may return to Main Cliff!
The falcons are currently nesting at the Summit Crag so closures will be in effect for Summit, Asylum, and parts of Yellow Knife...

A 3ft by 3ft block fell out of the Skewer (12c) on 5-12-07. It changes the jug before leaving the finger crack but I don't think it changes the grade.

Ladd, where exactly was this block? I was on the route the other day and noticed that the fingerlock/jug from which you clip the fourth bolt had crumbled a little, making the clip a tad harder. Or was the block pulled out lower, maybe by the second bolt?

It came out about 18 feet off the deck, so I guess it was at or around the second bolt. There was already a hole of sorts there I think and the block fell out of the hole after someone whipped and hit that spot with their feet during the fall.

It came out just right of the main line (I think).

Jay,
I wasn't on the climb, I was warming up on Polly Purebred, I watched as the block fell, hit the belayer (he was relatively unhurt but shaken) and luckily stopped on the upper ledge. If it had continued to fall it would have come down on 4 unsuspecting folks lounging below on that nice flat spot by the slab routes.

i climbed 12 pitches on main cliff today from 5.6-5.12 and every winter day i climb there i appreciate it more... what a great thing... a south facing overhanging cliff with moderates under it that are always dry...

according to chris martin who is in charge of the peregrine project the closure begins between mar 20th and april 1st depending on the bird activity... but its always too early regardless...

Main Cliff is open!!! the birds nested else where!!!

what route is right of gold digger? it bolted? I may have just missed it in the list, i hear its around 5.8.

EDIT: i figured it out

I got word a few days ago that there was a major rockfall off of main cliff during the big storm we had a few days ago... i went to check it out and was not disapointed... crazy damage to the forest and trail below main cliff... really there isnt a trail there any more just broken trees and rubble... also the ledge that seperates main cliff center and the right end was stripped of its trees and many rocks... here are some pictures of the desruction zone...

the main damage from ground level... crazy... Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2010

the view down the trail from near underdog... Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2010

main cliff trail destroyed this is what you have to get over now to get to the base of the main cliff center area... Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2010

destruction at the base of main cliff as seen from above the trail... well that used to be a trail... Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2010

hard to see what changed here if you dont know the cliff well.... but there used to be trees on that ledge now there are a few stumps... Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2010

Wow, first big rock fall i think i've heard of at rumney. Where did it fall from?

looked like most of it came off in the area between say, goldbug and rock du jours... it looked like you would have been fully safe sitting on the ledge under thinman etc, what a show that would have been!

Lee, were any of those route affected or was it above that? Can we go scavenge for bolts in the rubble?

from what i could see no routes were affected.... looked like the rock came off the top maybe and cleared the routes before hitting the ledge and the trail...

That is great that no routes were affected! I will have to hike up there soon and check out the wreckage.

so i had another look at the main cliff rockfall and it looks like one or two of the upper pitches may have been affected... it seems like a bunch of rock may have fallen off of the last pitch of Rock Du Jours above the right leaning ramp, it doesnt look like the fun final wall was messed up at all...

to the left of that route there is a fresh orange area of rock and i cant remember if it was already like that or if thats new too...

So, having not seen these posts, I was rather surprised to see the crazy devastation at the base of main cliff. I couldn't see damage to any of the routes I know, but I did find a bolt with two large steel quick links connected to it in the rubble. So be very careful climbing anything right of gold bug or any of the 2nd pitch routes, cause one's missing at least one of the anchor bolts, if not both.

I didn't do it : )

I climbed one of the multi-pitch routes to the right of the Iron man area this afternoon and saw the origin of the rock fall. There still seem to be some very sketchy blocks hanging out up there. I'm going to go about talking to some folks who would know what to do for trundling or checking out those blocks (Mark, any ideas?). In the mean time I thought I'd give every one a heads up that there is still some potential danger.

The anchors of The Thang were lost in the rockfall and need to be replaced. Most of the most obvious loose rocks left over have been trundled except a big dangerous one to the left of Rock du Jours. There was still a lot of dirt and gravel up there last I saw that needs to be swept off. Until then, the top outs on Gold Member and the second pitch of Golfbug will be unpleasant. If you are hanging out below, remember, it is not a safe place.

Does anyone know if the falcons have moved to another section of cliff?

all cliffs are open, there is no sign of nesting activities anywhere in rumney...

Does anybody know if 'The Thang' has received new anchors yet? There were draws hanging from the route the other day...

I know I haven't redone them and haven't heard that Chris has been up there. If somebody does, thought should go towards continuing up the corner that the rockfall revealed and also how it would integrate with new anchors for the last pitch of Ironman (shared?), which needs to be retroed. It is tough to do work up there since it needs a good cleaning of loose rock by Ironman and there are almost always people below unless it is horrible weather. Even drilling and bolting three pitches above a crowd is sketchy

Thanks for confirming that... I still don't know of all the climbing forums yet :)

Wow. Until just now, I didn't realize that Underdog, Sweet Polly Purebreed, and Simon Bar Sinister were all related (aside from adjacent on the wall to each other). Now I must ask: where's Riff Raff?

you watched the movie didn't you...

Only Smitty can answer that question.

Lee- I take it main cliff is open then? Or did the falcons return? I am a bit confused between your post and the closure alert on this page.

i have tried a few times to take the closure notice down with no luck... Main Cliff is 100% OPEN!
I just tried again to remove it and still no luck. I settled for rewording the note which worked... it should all be clear now...

you spelled brief wrong, Lee :D

oh yeah. "I" before "E" except after i don't give a s*%t haha :)
jk matt jk