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Main Cliff Right

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charity Case S 
Charity Toad S 
Cherry Pie T 
Crack Addict S 
Crowd Pleaser S 
Dead Toad S 
Easy Street T 
Flawless Victory S 
Freebird T 
Friendship Tower S 
Get a Grip S 
Get It On S 
Happy Hooker T 
High Roller S 
Magic Helmet S 
Run Out T 
Stained Glass Ceiling S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Tipping Point S 
Toady Dreams S 
Tour De Toad S 
Wendell's Route T 
White Toad T 

Main Cliff Right  


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Page Views: 26,600
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
Forecast:
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68-86°F
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54-81°F
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Ratty tat tat (taken down from above Freebird)

Description 

ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant.

Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.


Main Cliff Right is a small off shoot of main cliff that holds a good variety of climbing from 5.12 sport routes like Flawless Victory (5.12d) to moderate multipitch trad like White Toad (5.7). And a bunch of stuff in between.

Also once established on the upper ledge there are many more routes available. You can gain this ledge via Charity Case (5.9) or a moderate trad route to the right of that. Or even scrambling/traversing easily from the Main Cliff main area. From the ledge you can get to Wendell's Route (airy 5.6 trad) or a couple of super exposed 5.11s.

Getting There 

Follow signs from the small parking lot toward Main Cliff. Soon after stepping over a log across the trail with steps cut in to it look to your right for the harder steep climbs and a little further along for the more moderate trad routes starting in a corner.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff Right:
White Toad   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Crowd Pleaser   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Dead Toad   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Tipping Point   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Crack Addict   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Charity Toad   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 180'   
Stairway to Heaven   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Toady Dreams   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Freebird   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 200'   
High Roller   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Get a Grip   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Get It On   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff Right

Featured Route For Main Cliff Right
this route is a must do... PERIOD...

High Roller 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right
This route is just plain FUN!!! It is playful and challenging and exposed and if you climb at this level and aren't wicked short (some pretty big moves) just get out there and do it. This is the most fun route on the right side of the cliff.Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9 and fun in it's own right) to the anchor and belay.Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly right on moderate climbing following bolts till the rock steepens and the holds thin a little. Make heroic moves up the inverted section above ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Main Cliff Right Slideshow Add Photo
Mikey Korek sails through the upper moves of get i...
Mikey Korek sails through the upper moves of get i...
the new and improved right side of Main Cliff map....
BETA PHOTO: the new and improved right side of Main Cliff map....
The steep section
The steep section

Comments on Main Cliff Right Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2015
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 18, 2011
In the Old Rumney guide book there are two Routes listed that did not make it into the new guide. I was wondering if people had any insight into either of them.

The First one being 'Cherry Pie' listed as a 5.8, it is described as a link-up of 'Wendell's' and 'Rock Du Jours' using a corner crack system.

The second on being 'The Prow' listed as 5.9 it says climb the hand crack on 'Free Bird' then traverse into the top of 'White Toad'.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 18, 2011
I was surprised that Ward left Cherry Pie out of the new book. It runs out a pretty obvious and cool feature, the giant undercling flake that links in to Rock du Jour mid way through the second pitch. It looked like it would take a bunch of fairly large cams. The new belay anchor and starting bolts of Stairway to Heaven would facilitate leading it now. Being an old route that has lain fallow, it probably needs a good cleaning, but is worth it.

The Prow area has been fairly run over with new routes, but it is worth doing for a change by those who like to plug gear and have an adventure.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 18, 2011
yeah, ive done cherry pie but havent done the prow... ill have to remember to do that :) cherry pie is worth doing for sure!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 19, 2011
Awesome I will investigate both more in-depth! Lee would you want to add 'Cherry Pie' by any chance?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 20, 2011
sure matt... im surprized i hadnt done that yet.... its a fun climb...
By J Meagher
Aug 19, 2013
Is there any way to get to the third pitch of White Toad from the big ledge below Freebird without climbing any big runouts or trad routes?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 19, 2013
The second pitch of Charity Toad is technically "runout", but it is basically traversing across ledges and buckets. It shouldn't be any problem unless your second was inexperienced with being up 100 feet so they were completely wigged out, in which case they wouldn't be having fun on the 3rd pitch either. You would have to be practically unconscious to fall off there. Bring runners and you can use various bolts on the way across, like the first one of High Roller
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2013
I've taken a look at the said short pitch and it looks quite chill. We were up there to do High Roller and Stairway to Heaven and could see most of this "P2" of Charity Toad. Smitty had a good suggestion of linking Charity Case with this "P2" to the belay anchors for P3 of Charity Toad. Sounds rather pleasant.
By J Meagher
Aug 22, 2013
Okay thanks! Is this pitch two of charity-toad an established route or more of a linkup? And is it more or less runout than the vegetated gully on the right end of iron man that takes you to the ledge?
By S. Neoh
Aug 22, 2013
This pic shows this "P2" well mountainproject.com/v/10639091... . It is rther short.
By Jay LeSage
From: Sandown, NH
May 18, 2015
Does anyone know the names of/going to add the new 2 pitch routes? Ones 5.7 to the right of white toad and one is 5.8 on the around the right of the cave. I did them this last weekend. Theyre great and want to tick them off.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 18, 2015
The 5.7 is Dave Quinn's 'Crowd Pleaser'. The 5.8 is Chris Smith's 'Tipping Point'. Post 'em up. I haven't climbed them yet.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 18, 2015
Tipping Point was very enjoyable. Thanks, Chris.

Haven't had the chance to do Crowd Pleaser yet...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 19, 2015
When you post a description I'll post photos of them. ;) I'm still not sure which is Friendship Tower and Toady Dreams either. All 3 of them looked pretty appealing.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 22, 2015
I have gone ahead and posted Tipping Point and Crowd Pleaser. I hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by going ahead and doing this, I just have climbed them recently and knew that they needed to be posted. Mountain Project has been an invaluable resource to me as I have grown as a climber and fell in love with the climbing at Rumney. I am more than happy to be able to give back, if just in a small way.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 22, 2015
Thanks Matt. I wish more would add well done entries like that, and also use the "improve this page" button. Some other crags, like Woodchuck off the Kanc, could really use some help.
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