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 ADVANCED
The Columns
Select Route:
3rd Column Jam T,TR 
4th Column Jam T,TR 
Bat Crack T,TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Crack a No Go T 
Fat Crack T 
Hard Lieback T 
Left Ski Track T,TR 
Limp Dick T 
Main Chimney T,TR 
Satisfaction T 
Transportation Route T,TR 

Main Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: EugeneGuy on Sep 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Lookin' up at the Main Chimney

Description 

This is a pretty good climb. Definately worth doing if you're at "The Columns." Climb the chimney by stemming the entire way up (requires a little more strength), or use a combination of face climbing and crack skills. Crux is near the top, maybe 3/4 of the way up. Gets a little wet and dirty during the rainy season, but other than that, it's usually good.


Location 

Climb the obvious chimney immediately to the right of the main buttress.


Protection 

Can be done Trad or TR. Chain anchors at top. Small to medium stoppers and cams should be fine. A note about gear placements; they are a little trickier than it looks from the ground.



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By Reginald McChufferton
Oct 4, 2012

There is nothing PG13 about this route and the gear is not "tricky". It's 40 ft tall and it will eat your entire rack if you want to plug it all in. There is one spot near the top where you'll have to have gear at your knees in order to reach the next placement. Ooooh scary.

By EugeneGuy
Sep 27, 2013

Ok, I'll give you that. Was one of my early Trad leads. Edited the description to remove the rating.

Climbed this route again a few days ago, and it's still a great climb.