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The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.
About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Canyon:
The Golden Egg 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Drugs Are Nice 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Drug Test 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Gunks Pump 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Lunge for Jesus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Witches' Tit 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Main Canyon
Witches' Tit 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Main Canyon
The route furthest right when facing the wall. Start in a small, right-facing corner up to the bulging wall. Do a cool, powerful move off pockets to a jug. Clip, shake, then undercling, crimp, and highstep past one more bolt to a lone lowering hook. It is slightly more difficult than its neighbor "Weave Your Spell" but much more straightforward IMHO. Quality....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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