Main Block, Front Side Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 689 ft |
GPS: |
41.14589, -76.13836 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 7,970 total · 66/month |
Shared By: | kenr on May 30, 2014 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing
Details
During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
Description
The west side of the big detached block (readily visible on the approach from Paradise). The front side is away from the interior corridor of the Library.
This section also includes some routes (e.g. Darling Dainty Feet) which are on the north end of the detached main block (because they're on the west side of the widest entrance to the corridor).
This section also includes some routes (e.g. Darling Dainty Feet) which are on the north end of the detached main block (because they're on the west side of the widest entrance to the corridor).
Getting There
Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).
Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.
Now instead of entering the interior, look up just right to see the Darling Dainty Feet route on the north face of the big detached block. Then bear Right and walk/scramble along the outside wall to get to the other routes of this sector.
Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).
Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.
Now instead of entering the interior, look up just right to see the Darling Dainty Feet route on the north face of the big detached block. Then bear Right and walk/scramble along the outside wall to get to the other routes of this sector.
Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Block, Front Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
All Photos Within Main Block, Front Side
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Main Block, Front Side
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (6)
1 Comment