Maiden Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.
Maiden Buttress forms the left skyline, as seen from Lunch Rock. The longer routes finish on the gentle shoulder to the southwest of the summit. From here, the easiest way down is to scramble up to the summit, then (Class 2/3) southeast to the saddle, and then take the trail clockwise all the way around the rock. A quicker and shorter way is to descend the Friction Route. This starts just east of a large boulder at the upper end of the saddle, and goes down troughs and ledges until it reaches the ground. Its easy once you know the way, but be careful if you havent done it before some people have gotten off route and taken bad falls.
Scramble left from Lunch Rock to get to the base.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Maiden Buttress
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maiden Buttress:
Featured Route For Maiden Buttress
Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : Maiden Buttress
This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 30, 2012
Roger Linfield is correct about the bad falls. Joe Fitchen took a monster fall down the south face of Lily Rock (Tahquitz) in the 1950's. Ellen Wilts talks about witnessing that famous fall, in an interview, on a video at the Idyllwild History Museum.