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Maiden Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's Rush T 
Illegitimate, The T 
Iron Maiden T 
Looking Backward T 
Maiden Heaven T 
Maiden Voyage T 
White Maiden's Walkaway T 
Z Crack, The T 
Zeno's Paradox T 
Unsorted Routes:

Maiden Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 33.76038, -116.68417 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,004
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Maiden Buttress forms the left skyline, as seen from Lunch Rock. The longer routes finish on the gentle shoulder to the southwest of the summit. From here, the easiest way down is to scramble up to the summit, then (Class 2/3) southeast to the saddle, and then take the trail clockwise all the way around the rock. A quicker and shorter way is to descend the Friction Route. This starts just east of a large boulder at the upper end of the saddle, and goes down troughs and ledges until it reaches the ground. Itís easy once you know the way, but be careful if you havenít done it before Ė some people have gotten off route and taken bad falls.

Getting There 

Scramble left from Lunch Rock to get to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maiden Buttress:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   
Fool's Rush   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 750'   
The Illegitimate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Zeno's Paradox   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Maiden Buttress

Featured Route For Maiden Buttress
Looking down at the beginning of the flake.

Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Maiden Buttress
This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 30, 2012
Roger Linfield is correct about the bad falls. Joe Fitchen took a monster fall down the south face of Lily Rock (Tahquitz) in the 1950's. Ellen Wilts talks about witnessing that famous fall, in an interview, on a video at the Idyllwild History Museum.