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Maiden Buttress forms the left skyline, as seen from Lunch Rock. The longer routes finish on the gentle shoulder to the southwest of the summit. From here, the easiest way down is to scramble up to the summit, then (Class 2/3) southeast to the saddle, and then take the trail clockwise all the way around the rock. A quicker and shorter way is to descend the Friction Route. This starts just east of a large boulder at the upper end of the saddle, and goes down troughs and ledges until it reaches the ground. Itís easy once you know the way, but be careful if you havenít done it before Ė some people have gotten off route and taken bad falls.
Scramble left from Lunch Rock to get to the base.
9 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Maiden Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maiden Buttress:
White Maiden's Walkaway 5.1 2 6 II MD 2a Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Fool's Rush 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
The Illegitimate 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Looking Backward 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
The Z Crack 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Maiden Heaven 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Maiden Voyage 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Iron Maiden 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Maiden Buttress
Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Maiden Buttress
This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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