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Start on a ledge 10 feet above a pit that lies almost at sea level. Clip the first bolt before you even start Ė youíll see why. Although the guidebooks give this a 5.10b/c the first 15 feet or so are thin, very thin for a 10b. Itís all there though, and very well protected. Find the feet, step left over the chasm, and start working up towards the next bolt. By the time you clip your third bolt, it eases up considerably and you get to just cruise up and take in the view: the red walls, green plants, blue waters, and white sands of Thailand. It is a great climb, 4/5 stars for sure, but with the ambiance I give it 5/5.
Once you enter The Defile, you will find Mai Pen Rai on the red wall on your right. The route starts on a ledge 10 feet above a pit almost at sea level. To your right should be a sloping hill going further right and up, out of The Defile. Fairly obvious, the route ascends up and works left over a couple of flake-type tuffas to a shared anchor. As of summer 07, it was the only of the routes on the wall with titanium bolts.
All retro-bolted with new titanium single pieces, and well protected. Still, this route sits over the water, so the usual should be said: all bolts are suspect.