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End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All 
Cap'm Pissgums 
Days of Future Passed 
Endgame 
Jimmywacky 
Magnus Veritas 
Poetry in Motion 
Son of Gums 
Uncarved Block 
Unknown (L of Endgame) 
Welcome to the Machine 
Unsorted Routes:

Magnus Veritas 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JF & SA, 1990
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Oct 23, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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First pitch
Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Magnus Veritas ascends the face to the climber's right of Days of Future Passed on End Pinnacle. It was originally rated 5.11R in Kerry's Guide, but it seems the R rating no longer applies. There are some runs between protection, on easier but not entirely trivial climbing.

P1) Begins just right of the original start to Days, up a layback then past a few bolts up and right to a stance below a small field of plates. Climb these plates until they run out and commit left to some big holds then up easier ground to a 2 bolt belay. Some adequate pro can be had between the plates if creative.

P2) Climb up to bulbous arch feature, clip a bolt and pull first crux over a bulge on small crimps. A couple bolts later is crux #2 on thin face. Climbing gradually eases to 5.9 past a handful of bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Without the added bolts, the FA was surely a long ways out on this section.

P3) Nice, sustained, well protected 5.8/5.9 climbing up to the belay below the summit cap (shared with Days and Endgame). According to Kerry's topo, this pitch originally only had 2 bolts, meaning a BIG runout on this long pitch.


Location 

Approach as for Days of Future Passed, starts with 2 bolts near the ground up a layback.


Protection 

12-14 draws seems right, along with a set of stoppers and singles of small to med cams. I think my partner said the first pitch could maybe take a #3 BD cam too.



Photos of Magnus Veritas Slideshow Add Photo
Atop pitch 2, Andy waiting as I fall at the cruxes.
Atop pitch 2, Andy waiting as I fall at the cruxes...
Andy walking up the 3rd pitch
Andy walking up the 3rd pitch
Comments on Magnus Veritas Add Comment
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By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

Thoughts of climbing this one have long chilled my blood but, once we finally sacked up to it, it wasn't so bad. You're really more likely the star in a flick chock full of obscenities than a gory maul-fest. I'll say that if you can confidently pull the well-protected cruxes of the 2nd pitch, you should have no trouble with the "PG-13/Soft-R" run-outs above. As the poster notes, new bolts may have made this one much safer than it was BITD; of course you can always stay left and avoid the bolts, if that's how you roll...Crumbling holds at and above the crux detract from the quality of this route, but the overall character of movement is superb and it really deserves more ascents. The rock *may* (hopes!) clean up with more traffic. One more thing: Leaders, I would advise NOT yarding on the middle of the giant protuberance directly above the 1st belay; bad things could happen...

A cam or two in the hands-range will tame the spice on the 1st pitch.

EDIT: This route has, in fact, been retro-bolted. This info via the rest of the FA party, and verified by a recent revisit. A sport route climbs out of the Inner Passage and merges into the 2nd pitch of Magnus; the newer bolts are still spaced a healthy distance apart, so be prepared. The 3rd pitch has been completely retro-bolted and is super safe.

By John Fowler
Oct 29, 2012

I would like to clarify the above description. I did not add any bolts to what was done on the first ascent. The only place I believe any bolts should have been added to the route were at the belay by the protuberance (as I recall we left slings and it was messy). It's sad to hear that folks are so soft and can't leave a couple of routes for someone that aspires to different challenges. The route was put up on lead and drilled using stances and hooks. I am all for replacing aging hardware, but not changing the character of a particular route. It is weak sauce to add bolts and say that the first ascent party did the deed. There were plenty of routes in that area that did not require as much attention to detail and climbing skill. Sad.

John Fowler

P.S. It seems that you really didn't need to "sack up".

By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 29, 2012

Hey John did you talk to the rest of the FA party to see if they added them?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2012

(edit)

John I agree that bolts should not be added to established lines. They should be left as test-pieces for people looking forward to the challenge. There are plenty of safe routes to choose from in the Stronghold.

For what it's worth Clay and Andy are badass and can sack up with the best of them.

By John Fowler
Oct 30, 2012

All,
I didn't mean to imply that Clay and Andy couldn't "sack up", just that they didn't need too. :}

I did not contact Scott about this, he would need to live with himself if he went and defaced my leads. As I said earlier, I always thought that the belay by the protuberance needed to be cleaned up. We left slings hanging off of it and it is bit sketchy, but that is all that I feel was needed to clean up the route.

John Fowler

P.S. The route name is Magnus Veritas not Magna Veritas.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2012

Cool John, thanks for the clarification. (edit)

By John Fowler
Oct 30, 2012

I am just surprised that bolts were added. I don't feel strongly enough too push for more damage being done to the rock. I don't know who added the bolts and honestly I don't care. I got something myself from the route that I did and nobody else will allowed to have a similar experience. Andy and Clay got all psyched up for something that doesn't exist anymore. It seems like others have been robbed by another self indulgent act. When I did the leads on that route I did them in such a way as to achieve a particular experience, that has now been removed. It happens a lot to routes all over. It does seem to me that climbers should not erase history and possibly attempt to reach within themselves to do better. After all, there are plenty of other routes at that particular grade to hone your skills before stepping up to something more mentally challenging. Replacing bad/old bolts is one thing, rebolting a route to meet your own limitations (or those of others) is a different act. I do believe that maintaining the challenge and history of a route is very important so other can have similar experiences if they are capable. There are way more safe routes these days than routes that require both physical and mental fitness. I don't own the rock or the route, I was just lucky enough to go up there and have a great experience.

John Fowler

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2012

(Edit). Thanks John. FWIW I would prefer that runout routes are not retrobolted.