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Magnum Opus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ryan Barber, Bradley White Nov. 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: bradley white on Nov 8, 2011

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Description 

Climb was nearly an epic because rocks that looked solid and part of the cliff (at the beginning) were loose. I had to drop a Basket ball size rock onto my chest. The ladder got knocked down. I had no injury and after setting up the pro I was exhausted not doing the (5.10) crux. I resigned the lead over to Ryan and he got through the crux second try. I aided the crux eventually after trying another way far right of the crux. I am sure I can get up it way over right. After the crux there is a corner with tree to another corner with a beautiful crack (5.7) and then a midway belay on smaller trees and trad. gear. Magnum Opus will go direct from the belay. There are two other options to summit. Everything is very lichen covered. I went left and had to leave because it was getting dark. Top rope bolting will be done instead to finish the variation on the left side. This will be the 'Deus Ex Machina'. Loose rock could be in the finish to Magnum Opus.


Location 

Where the ladder used to be entering Wonderland. That is the opposite crag to 'Giant Man' below the once was a ladder is a left facing corner. Belay off of a tree or an eye bolt below this corner to start. Weird friable rock are places to avoid to begin with and flakes. Most of this rock is gone and some remains to keep the cliff intact.
The area is alpine and rocks in the dirt above the 5.7 corner some are completely loose. Removing any of these rocks will cause extreme erosion and there are hundred's of pounds of rocks resting above here past a tree helping to support all of this rock. A large slab of rock lays above these loose rocks in a V groove incline. Without the area left intact the way it is, there will likely be by erosion a massive rock slide onto Hinterland's trail and these large rocks will continue hundreds of feet down towards the boulders. If you are you going to venture here don't remove the loose rocks in the dirt by being cautious to where you place your feet. It is that easy to displace them. Definitely not a sport area in quality although a entirely eye bolted extreme moderate is being established here. Wear a helmet and if you don't know alpine, stay away.


Protection 

small # of every size stoppers. BIg stopper/medium tri-cam or 1.5/2 friend for crux and this size repeats in the cam sizes. Some smaller cams and big cams will be necessary to finish the climb.



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