Magnum cum Masochist
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 22 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Michael LaPlante |
Page Views: | 1,029 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, but not one of the best, even for the grade. Climb up the varnished face about 10 feet, then pull onto a large ledge below a prominent spray-painted "peace sign." There is a bolt at the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and just clipping the 2nd from a secure stance (avoids rope drag). From the ledge, climb the vertical face above on large incut edges. The crux is at the 3rd bolt, and can be potentially challenging to some. The crux can be avoided by staying well right of the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Climbed this way, the route probably goes at 5.9.
The anchor, while not far from the lip, can be tough to equalize well; bring some extra biners, slings, and ingenuity.
The anchor, while not far from the lip, can be tough to equalize well; bring some extra biners, slings, and ingenuity.
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