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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
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Magnolia Thunderpussy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck, Jonathan Bjorkland, Oct. 1970 FFA Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy, Scott Baxter, May 1971
Season: Fall
Page Views: 7,178
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006

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The awesome first pitch of Magnolia Thunder Pussy

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Magnolia Thunderpussy stacks up several pitches of some of GM's best moderate climbing, and is on the to do list for many first time visitors. Clean rock, unique terrain, and good gear all conspire to make this line a memorable classic whether you are dancing up it, or cutting your teeth.

Pitch 1-

On the far left side of the Middle Section, and to the right of the Swamp Slabs, look for a stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a cool stem box, and a small roof. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof there is a short section of scrambling, and I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached.

Pitch 2-

The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb an angling crack up right facing dihedral up to the hanging flake roof. This part is awesome for the original 5.7 grade! Chimney your way out and over, and watch the rope drag on this part. After the roof, continue up a ways to set a belay where it looks like all the technical climbing is done. A couple different chimneys offer lines to the summit.

Location 

Far left side of Middle Section.

Protection 

Standard rack, doubles, wires, runners. No fixed belays.


Photos of Magnolia Thunderpussy Slideshow Add Photo
Jason above the twin cracks on pitch 1
Jason above the twin cracks on pitch 1
Magnolia Thunderpussy, P1
Magnolia Thunderpussy, P1
p1
p1
Magnolia Thunderpussy, P4
Magnolia Thunderpussy, P4
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Climb to the light!  The Hidden Chimney pitch on Magnolia Thunderpussy
Climb to the light! The Hidden Chimney pitch on M...
JB climbing his way outta pitch 3
JB climbing his way outta pitch 3
Greg contemplating . . . .
Greg contemplating . . . .
p1
p1

Comments on Magnolia Thunderpussy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2011
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Looks like it to me! Haha climb on up in there!
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 24, 2007

Magnolia Thunderpussy was a "dancer" in San Francisco in the 60's in the Haight district. The Grateful Dead song "Sugar Magnolia" is about her. I think there was a bar in Haight Ashbury named for her later, but I don't know about one in Boulder.
By CO_Michael
Jul 1, 2008

How did this route get a 5.9+ from 5.8? Oh well.... it is classic.
By Joe Dawson
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Time to declare the emperor is naked. The first pitch is not 5.9. I led it once and TRed it a couple of time and I think it feels like 5.10+, and possibly a 5.10-.

Like many of the routes on Granite Mountain, this one is sandbagged by a couple of grades, so be warned. I only did the first pitch, so my comments only apply to it.

Nevertheless, the first pitch is fantastic and it takes great pro.
By Kyle J. Kent
Dec 29, 2008

The 5.9- Rating is not a shock on this route. Granite Mountain is known for having sandbagged (accurate?) graded routes. The roof move COULD go at 5.10a if you really wanted to regrade it. The roof has a good rest before it, perfect hands, and feet develop as you go through it. Nothing wrong with the grade if you ask me. Compare it to Coatimundi's second pitch or Candyland's third pitch; both of them are harder in my opinion and the same grade.

As for the climb itself... Fantastic crack climbing/stemming up to the roof. Fire it left (original way I believe) or right (preferred, perfect hands) and continue up a crack for a bit more. After that the route lets up some. One more exposed, awkward move brings you out of the famous "flake". Easy/anticlimactic chimneying brings you to the top. Do in two pitches with a 70M rope, just make sure to go far enough on pitch 1.

Great linkup - Magnolia -> C.W. Hicks
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Both roof exits are fun- right is harder but protects better- left is easier but involves a mantle into an OW flare. I disagree with Kyle- the chimney moves out of the flake on p3 are anything but anticlimatic- I have known a number of strong climbers that have gotten spooked on these 5.7 moves. The hidden chimney final pitch is soooo coool. 4 star route all the way
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Feb 26, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It was still 5.8 when I climbed it in the mid 90's.
By DaveF
From: Durango, CO
Apr 12, 2011

Going to college in Prescott in the mid 90's, GM was our playground. We never felt the grades to be sandbagged...a 5.8 at GM (Magnolia Thunderpussy) set the standard for all 5.8's at every other crag. Have things changed? Lovejoy rated it a 5.8 and I think he was right on.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 20, 2011

ok let's try a new approach. let's say this route was in yosemite. what would it be rated there?

the purpose of ratings is largely to determine if the route is within your ability level before you leave the ground and get in over your head. that's what i'm trying to do here. any help would be appreciated.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2011

Hey Jon-

The first pitch is stout but has solid gear. Give me a call and I'll tell you about it.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

According to the first guidebook to GM, written by David Lovejoy, Magnolia was graded "5.8 or 5.9, depending on height".