Magnolia Thunderpussy 

Looks like it to me! Haha climb on up in there!

Magnolia Thunderpussy was a "dancer" in San Francisco in the 60's in the Haight district. The Grateful Dead song "Sugar Magnolia" is about her. I think there was a bar in Haight Ashbury named for her later, but I don't know about one in Boulder.

How did this route get a 5.9+ from 5.8? Oh well.... it is classic.

Time to declare the emperor is naked. The first pitch is not 5.9. I led it once and TRed it a couple of time and I think it feels like 5.10+, and possibly a 5.10-.

Like many of the routes on Granite Mountain, this one is sandbagged by a couple of grades, so be warned. I only did the first pitch, so my comments only apply to it.

Nevertheless, the first pitch is fantastic and it takes great pro.

The 5.9- Rating is not a shock on this route. Granite Mountain is known for having sandbagged (accurate?) graded routes. The roof move COULD go at 5.10a if you really wanted to regrade it. The roof has a good rest before it, perfect hands, and feet develop as you go through it. Nothing wrong with the grade if you ask me. Compare it to Coatimundi's second pitch or Candyland's third pitch; both of them are harder in my opinion and the same grade.

As for the climb itself... Fantastic crack climbing/stemming up to the roof. Fire it left (original way I believe) or right (preferred, perfect hands) and continue up a crack for a bit more. After that the route lets up some. One more exposed, awkward move brings you out of the famous "flake". Easy/anticlimactic chimneying brings you to the top. Do in two pitches with a 70M rope, just make sure to go far enough on pitch 1.

Great linkup - Magnolia -> C.W. Hicks

Both roof exits are fun- right is harder but protects better- left is easier but involves a mantle into an OW flare. I disagree with Kyle- the chimney moves out of the flake on p3 are anything but anticlimatic- I have known a number of strong climbers that have gotten spooked on these 5.7 moves. The hidden chimney final pitch is soooo coool. 4 star route all the way

It was still 5.8 when I climbed it in the mid 90's.

Going to college in Prescott in the mid 90's, GM was our playground. We never felt the grades to be sandbagged...a 5.8 at GM (Magnolia Thunderpussy) set the standard for all 5.8's at every other crag. Have things changed? Lovejoy rated it a 5.8 and I think he was right on.

ok let's try a new approach. let's say this route was in yosemite. what would it be rated there?

the purpose of ratings is largely to determine if the route is within your ability level before you leave the ground and get in over your head. that's what i'm trying to do here. any help would be appreciated.

Hey Jon-

The first pitch is stout but has solid gear. Give me a call and I'll tell you about it.

According to the first guidebook to GM, written by David Lovejoy, Magnolia was graded "5.8 or 5.9, depending on height".