|j. The Wall of Immortals
the obvious bolted hanging arete visible from the lower slabs to the big wall. a well protected burl fest. pretty easy moves off the ledge to the first 2 or 3 bolts. Once you clip the first chain your in the buisness, keep moving and try not to get crossed up. big dynamic moves on drilled pockets. Not a lot of footholds so don't bother looking. crux is pulling over the belly. 5.11 moves to the top
get on the trail for the great wall and walk towards the wall staying next to the water. start up Totally Unacceptable (5.8/9) belay at the ledge and start up Poised For Peril (5.11+) clipping every bolt along the way to keep the rope out of your way (you'll see what I mean). At the last roof, just shy of the Poised anchors cut right and follow the bolts for an airy traverse to the steel cable and build an anchor where ever you see fit. Then the money pitch. If you make it to the top there is a chance you wont be able to get back into the wall when you lower. Have your belayer lower you to the slab beneath the cable, but not under the roof. have them toss you a bight of rope (lets hope theyre using a grigri) and pull yourself back in. rap from the rap anchors on the left side of the ledge. 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.
All fixed draws except for the first 3 bolts. bring an extra quick draw or two as some of the biners tend to flip the wrong way in the chain and is a real pain to fix on lead. This is Birdsboro so follow the obvious holds and try your best to stay on route. Holds have been coming off pretty regularly and will do so until it sees more traffic.
|By Chris Acosta|
Mar 8, 2013
Way to go Max this climb took me two weeks at least to bolt and modify. I hope to see many more ascents it is a very gymnastic climb with great exposure. Def a gem!