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Routes in k. The Wall of Immortals
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Afternoon Delight S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Blankety Blank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chief Crazy Bird S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Early Bird Special S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eight.Nine.Ten. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eleven.Twelve.Thirteen. S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Magnanimous S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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No Chance Of Escape! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Panty Cannon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Poised for Peril S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Son of a Blankety Blank S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Totally Unacceptable S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncharted Direct Feed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncharted Territory S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Max Snyder September 15, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,609 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Max Snyder on Dec 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Loose
Details
The rock is so loose! A massive piece cracked off and landed on my belayers leg causing her to need immediate surgery. The EMT that arrived told me they'd been called for this wall in particular 3 times in the last 3 weeks due to rock coming loose.
Description
the obvious bolted hanging arete visible from the lower slabs to the big wall. a well protected burl fest. pretty easy moves off the ledge to the first 2 or 3 bolts. Once you clip the first chain your in the buisness, keep moving and try not to get crossed up. big dynamic moves on drilled pockets. Not a lot of footholds so don't bother looking. crux is pulling over the belly. 5.11 moves to the top
Location
get on the trail for the great wall and walk towards the wall staying next to the water. start up Totally Unacceptable (5.8/9) belay at the ledge and start up Poised For Peril (5.11+) clipping every bolt along the way to keep the rope out of your way (you'll see what I mean). At the last roof, just shy of the Poised anchors cut right and follow the bolts for an airy traverse to the steel cable and build an anchor where ever you see fit. Then the money pitch. If you make it to the top there is a chance you wont be able to get back into the wall when you lower. Have your belayer lower you to the slab beneath the cable, but not under the roof. have them toss you a bight of rope (lets hope theyre using a grigri) and pull yourself back in. rap from the rap anchors on the left side of the ledge. 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.
Protection
All fixed draws except for the first 3 bolts. bring an extra quick draw or two as some of the biners tend to flip the wrong way in the chain and is a real pain to fix on lead. This is Birdsboro so follow the obvious holds and try your best to stay on route. Holds have been coming off pretty regularly and will do so until it sees more traffic.
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