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Maginot Line 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Shaver, Pidgeon, 1970
Page Views: 7,142
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 8, 2007
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2nd Pitch of Maginot Line, Shortoff, NC.
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  • Description 

    Maginot Line is a climb that unfolds with each move. Each moves links with the next in a way that keeps you thinking and on your toes. It is truly a classic with great climbing in a great location.

    Maginot Line climbs the huge left facing corner that is located to the right of Little Corner. It will be marked by a large pine at the base and another pine about 20 feet up the route.

    This route can be done in 3 or 4 pitches.
    P1 - climb the dihedral to a comfy belay below a chockstone.
    P2 - continue up the dihedral following the path of least resistance...angle right to an arete and up through a block/fingercrack to an overhang. Pull the overhang and set a belay on another great ledge. (or split this pitch into two.)
    P3 - easy climbing up the dihedral leads to the top.


    Protection 

    All trad, baby!



    Photos of Maginot Line Slideshow Add Photo
    Looking up from Second Pitch.
    Looking up from Second Pitch.
    Michael approaching the top of the first pitch, June 2013.
    Michael approaching the top of the first pitch, Ju...
    Eddie leading P1 of Maginot, approaching the cruxy overhang exit to the belay ledge, where I'm standing.
    Eddie leading P1 of Maginot, approaching the cruxy...
    View up the first pitch of Maginot Line. June 2013
    BETA PHOTO: View up the first pitch of Maginot Line. June 2013
    Unknown climber leading P1
    Unknown climber leading P1
    Looking down from under the crux on p2
    Looking down from under the crux on p2
    Comments on Maginot Line Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 25, 2014
    By Jesse Morehouse
    From: CO
    May 31, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    I think the guide refers to this as "possibly the best 5.7 in the state" and Id have a hard time arguing.

    By charlie collins
    Nov 3, 2008

    we did it in 4 pitches like the guide. made for a really short second pitch. what a classic route. super fun.

    By EverydayExplorer
    Feb 13, 2009

    This is a classic line. I think I've climbed it three times in the past year and plan on climbing it at least a couple times this year. I wrote a brief trip report after my first time here. OnTheSharpEnd.com - Maginot Line

    By Mike Heilman
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Feb 24, 2010

    Pitch 1 is longer than you think. Said to be 90 feet in some guides, with reference to a ledge for belay under a chockstone. There are multiple chockstones in the dihedral along the way where an anchor is possible, but the best ledge is up and right. You can follow the dihedral up and see it, or climb an exposed and unprotected face on the right just under it. Great holds, but no pro. P2 is short (50 ft) and could be combined with P1, but rope drag could be a problem. No description of P3 is necessary, beyond saying that it's the best pitch of the route with plenty of pro at the roof. P4 a long scramble to the top.

    By Peter Pitocchi
    Jun 5, 2010

    Pitch 3 doesn't go directly up the crack. You step right 15-20 feet on a little ledge and finish the pitch by climbing a face with lots of horizontals. The guide seems to want you to "trend Right" but you actually go sharply right well below the overhang. We got corn-fused and set up an extra belay on the little ledge to figure things out. 5 pitches instead of 3-4 (...doh!). Great climb, good pro throughout.

    By Mike Holley
    From: Boone, NC
    Oct 10, 2011

    Classic Short off Route! Definitely an aesthetic climb even if its not the most physically demanding. Linked pitch one and two (easily done and well worth it) and finished out the original sequence. Pitch three is gorgeous with great exposure and solid pro!

    Like many of the routes out at Short Off, keep an eye open for loose rock!

    By Ryan Williams
    Administrator
    From: London (sort of)
    Oct 21, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    This was the first route I did at Shortoff, back when I had 7 cams and a set of nuts. Really fun route... solid rock, sustained climbing, comfy belays. Link the first two pitches... and I've been told you can link the last two w/ a 70.

    By Matt Westlake
    Jun 11, 2012

    Anyone tried going straight up through the overhanging crack on P3 rather than dodging out right? Difficulty, gear? I was tempted but a) it wasn't my pitch to lead and b) I wasn't sure how the pro was and didn't want to talk my partner into anything too sketchy.

    Edit: Looks like it's been done here www.mountainproject.com/v/maginot-roof/107771058

    By Dustin Stephens
    Jul 27, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Can link 1&2 then 2&3 into a 2-pitch route with lots of runners. Fantastic moderate!

    By Ezra Ellis
    Oct 26, 2012
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

    Great route,
    Probably want a 4 and a 5 camalot (new sizes) for the first pitch.
    crux is the first pitch imo.

    Zoo view is the best 5.7 in NC however...:)

    By chris mcguigan
    From: belmont, nc
    Mar 16, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    2 long pitches; for me the crux was the first half of the climb thought provoking movement in and out of the crack.
    The upper section moving right onto the face and over the bulge was 4 star terrifically fun climbing.

    By Shadrock
    From: Washington, DC
    Oct 14, 2013

    Absolutely stellar line: full-value climbing and exposure for a 5.7. We didn't use anything bigger than a #3. I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 (can be done with a 60m) especially if you're trying to move fast. Use LOTS of long runners for this. Each of the first 3 pitches has a great "hero move" with stemming and jug hauls over wicked exposure. Enjoy!

    By Be Esperanza
    From: Asheville, NC
    Mar 25, 2014

    we did it in 2 pitches with a 70, but I think you could pull it off in 2 with a 60 as well. Absolute classic.