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 ADVANCED
The Scone
Routes Sorted
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Chads Mantle T 
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Magik Luv Gaz S 
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Scone S 
Trial By Fire S 

Magik Luv Gaz 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Brandon & Chad S. (boulder FA before bolts)
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The right bolt start.

Description 

A vertical section with ledges presents a bouldery puzzle off the deck, well-protected with two bolts. Starting at the bolt on the left goes at 5.9; using the right-hand first bolt instead used to go at 5.10a until a block broke off. Now it's a fairly decent V3/4 boulder problem. Caution should be used if attempting to lead the right hand variation as the protection bolt placed is totally worthless and will not protect you from a ground fall when pulling through the crux. A boulder pad is a better option than a rope. Both variations share the same bolt line for the rest of the climb (dirty 4th class), low-angle but with an easier cruxy move close to the anchors. Lichen makes footwork more delicate than you'd expect up here.

Location 

Northwest side of the Scone, in view of the Split Rock chimney. Lower or rap off the anchors. A 60 meter rope is ample.

Protection 

Seven or eight bolts to an anchor with Mussy hooks.


Photos of Magik Luv Gaz Slideshow Add Photo
The money moves at the start of the route - belay by John.
BETA PHOTO: The money moves at the start of the route - belay ...

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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Brandon and I bouldered that start before Jerry added the bolt to protect it for leading. We're the ones who ripped off the big flake.
Anyway, I don't remember it being anywhere near 5.10. It felt like .10b before the flake came off, then 5.11 hard after.
Must be something totally different if you're calling it .10a.

Too bad that route goes to 4th class after about 12ft of climbing.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013

Hey Sal, Duane didn't remember the names of the routes when he gave me and John our tour. He said he thought it was 5.9 ish starting on the left bolt, 5.10a ish starting on the right. That sounds right about the class 4 walk up after that.

I put up the only pic I could find of the right start.

I googled around for what the only names that might fit online - do I have this one right? Who should I put down for FA pre-drill?