|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Brandon & Chad S. (boulder FA before bolts)|
|Submitted By:||Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013|
|Comments on Magik Luv Gaz||Add Comment|
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From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brandon and I bouldered that start before Jerry added the bolt to protect it for leading. We're the ones who ripped off the big flake.
Anyway, I don't remember it being anywhere near 5.10. It felt like .10b before the flake came off, then 5.11 hard after.
Must be something totally different if you're calling it .10a.
Too bad that route goes to 4th class after about 12ft of climbing.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013
Hey Sal, Duane didn't remember the names of the routes when he gave me and John our tour. He said he thought it was 5.9 ish starting on the left bolt, 5.10a ish starting on the right. That sounds right about the class 4 walk up after that.
I put up the only pic I could find of the right start.
I googled around for what the only names that might fit online - do I have this one right? Who should I put down for FA pre-drill?