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The start is bouldery in nature. Although rock quality is questionable, this route offers nice powerful and sustained face moves all the way up to the crux at 4th and 5th bolt. Worth 3 stars but deserves only 2 stars due to rock quality. Body positioning and precise slopy smearing is key to a successful ascent.
Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This is the Stepping Stones crag. Past the Quebec Connection dihedral, Magie Noire is the obvious, black streak on the left, at the right edge of the pile of overhanging, stacked blocks.
7 bolts and a top anchor.
Pebby approaching the crux moves.
Bruno installing the 3rd bolt.
Mica, Bruno's fathful & loyal companion, taking a ...
|By Kevin Neilson|
May 21, 2012
Fun moves. I found this easier than the 5.11s to the left (Turkey Neck Direct and El Gallito). Make sure to avoid the seemingly out-of-place bolt to the left--this bolt is for the Warlock Pincers / Pinche Guey linkup. The upper half of the route is shared with Warlock Pincers. I thought the rock quality was good.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jul 6, 2013
The opening moves over a bulge are fun. However, when you look down from above, you see that the whole 5-by-6-foot bulge has a crack going all the way around it. If it were to come off onto a climber yarding on it, it would be the big pancake.