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Magician's Apprentice 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Hanson & Sills, 1990?
Page Views: 744
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: A is the start, lots of good chalked up areas, go ...

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Description 

Just left of Marijuana, this route starts from the same ledge and has a sporty first bolt that is easily stick-clipped. Follow three bolts to a ledge, passing a lieback/jam flake. There is a bolt on the ledge that is not visible from the ground. From the ledge, fire up on positive holds and another flake until crux cobbles and pockets beckon. A fine outing.

Protection 

Six quickdraws to a two bolt anchor. Consider a long sling for the anchor, to avoid rope rubbing.


Photos of Magician's Apprentice Slideshow Add Photo
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
At the start.
At the start.
The wonderful Miss Alana, showing us where that hi...
BETA PHOTO: The wonderful Miss Alana, showing us where that hi...

Comments on Magician's Apprentice Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Apr 30, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

When you get to the first big ledge, it looks like you have a huge runout between the next two bolts. I had an awful big smile on my face when I discovered the "hidden" bolt.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2002

If you fall trying the clip the anchors, keep an eye out for the ledge below.
By Darin Lang
Jan 24, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route, Marijuana, and Renaissance are all worth doing, particularly on spring and fall mornings.

A little easier than Marijuana IMO.
By kevin jenkins
Jul 1, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a great route to push yourself on, but Dan is right- falling while clipping can mean a wild ride. I climbed past the hidden bolt the first time up this route, seeing it as my foot hit it. What a relief! Great route!
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Beware the bats living in the flake you pass/use beyond the second bolt. There were at least 5 of the critters squeaking at me while I tried to lead quickly past them.
By drewhouser
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There are 2 fun moves on this route...that is all.