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Toni Harp Bloc
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Magical Thinking 
Toni Harp 
Toni Harp's Resignation 

Magical Thinking 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ R

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Conor Clarke
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: FooDawg on Apr 9, 2014

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Conor getting ready to make an attempt to the lip,...

Description 

This starts at the same hold as the other climbs. Climbs through Toni Harp's Resignation until you get to the arete crimp about 12-15ft off the deck. This is where the crux is, from here you need to find a way to the sloper lip.
This is pretty mellow up to the crux, but you really need to commit on this one.

It is the black line on the beta photo...


Location 

Normal start as the other climbs. You will see the rest crimp on the arete 3/4 way up, from there, instead of rocking onto the slab to end it like Toni Harp's Resignation, you just climb directly up the overhung face to the slopey lip.
Walk off the back to the trail.


Protection 

Lots of pads, more than 1 spotter, and the commitment/courage of a hometown hero, because a fall from the lip will be really scary and hard on the legs...



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By Conor Clarke
Apr 13, 2014

I did this yesterday with six pads and one spotter. The grade is kind of a guess. Compared to other dynos I've done, the individual move from the high crimp to the sloper felt about V5, and the start adds a bit of pump. A stout V6 would be my first guess, but this fits me perfectly. Other beta may be easier. Who knows. Try it!

These climbs are PG-13 with enough pads and a diligent spotter.

By FooDawg
From: New Haven, CT
Apr 14, 2014

I left it at v7-R as per our discussion last weekend how you think you may have a height advantage on the last move compared to most. If you think I should change it to v6, just let me know.

I am also leaving R rating since no one has tested the block strength yet, and the talus underneath of it makes this dicey unless you have a truck of pads, which most people don't have access to.

Nice send Conor!

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 15, 2014

Nice job Conner! If you guys like high balls you guys should head up to Bald Rock and I'll take you guys all for a tour!

Mo

By czd
Apr 21, 2014

this is a proud line. the crux is pretty high up there

By czd
Apr 24, 2014

I am very interested in a tour. When is good for you?