When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...
The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.
The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.
I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.
Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.
Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.
Right of Devil's Deed and Left of Redrum/Jungleland (aka the Left Line) there is an Africa shaped flake. Start the climb off the ledge where the Lines start. Climb the corner and get established into the upper crack.
|Comments on Magical Mystery Tour
|By S. Stember|
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 19, 2009
Has anyone else led this route? Whats your opinion on the safety of it? Good to go (PG?)? Or a bit sketch (PG13?)?
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 20, 2009
I think it's PG - was able to find solid gear every few feet on the difficult terrain. i recall using some small "trick" gear like ballnuts near the crux areas.
The biggest part for me were the wasps hanging out in many of the good holds! It took a lot of clear thinking to avoid disturbing those guys, protect, and find alternate holds!
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2010
I would say PG- (minus...) on this one. The gear is there, but the fall wouldn't be fun. The most unnerving part of lead is manhandling the giant, slightly detached flake which makes up the crux, and your crux gear.
|By Dustin Wildermuth|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2012
PG for sure but I was able to get gear in.
|By Tim Heid|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13
Fun and steep! But after a second time, I don't think I'd do this one again. It's pretty unnerving pulling on that detached flake.