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Routes in Pharaoh's Hat
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Cat In The Hat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hat Trick S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m) |
| FA: | James Garrett and Paul Tusting, 8 June 2008 |
| Page Views: | 601 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Description
This ascends the NW Spur of Pharaoh's Hat. It is one really long 70m rope stretcher of a pitch or one may break it up in between and build a belay along the way and make it two pitches. This starts on the far right or west end of the ledge system on the north side of The Hat. Take care traversing on this ledge system. A fixed tag line seemed to be appropriate here.
This is a direct line to the tower top of the Pharaoh's Hat. This side of the wall is more broken up than the other side, it was established ground up and despite rigorous cleaning efforts while climbing, some looseness, lichen, and dirt still prevails. I liked this climb alot, though....consider it an alpine type tower adventure.
Pitch #1: Climb out of the alcove up the ramp following bolts to an overhang. Climb through this first overhang to what becomes an obvious spur or arete. Numerous short cruxes finally lead you to easier terrain to the tower top. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. 5.9, 70m.
This is a direct line to the tower top of the Pharaoh's Hat. This side of the wall is more broken up than the other side, it was established ground up and despite rigorous cleaning efforts while climbing, some looseness, lichen, and dirt still prevails. I liked this climb alot, though....consider it an alpine type tower adventure.
Pitch #1: Climb out of the alcove up the ramp following bolts to an overhang. Climb through this first overhang to what becomes an obvious spur or arete. Numerous short cruxes finally lead you to easier terrain to the tower top. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. 5.9, 70m.
Location
This is located 20-30m to the right (west) of Hat Trick along the same ramp system. Find the climb in an alcove with a wide chimney ramp/arete that exits the dark alcove. A tag line has been installed on this ramp protecting the narrow traverses and to the beginning of the climb.
Rappel 3 times with a single 60m rope from the top via Cat In The Hat/ Hat Trick.
Rappel 3 times with a single 60m rope from the top via Cat In The Hat/ Hat Trick.
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