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Pharaoh's Hat
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cat In The Hat T 
Hat Trick S 
Magical Mystery Tour T 

Magical Mystery Tour 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Garrett and Paul Tusting, 8 June 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 8, 2008

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The yellow line marks The Magical Mystery Tour

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Description 

This ascends the NW Spur of Pharaoh's Hat. It is one really long 70m rope stretcher of a pitch or one may break it up in between and build a belay along the way and make it two pitches. This starts on the far right or west end of the ledge system on the north side of The Hat. Take care traversing on this ledge system. A fixed tag line seemed to be appropriate here.

This is a direct line to the tower top of the Pharaoh's Hat. This side of the wall is more broken up than the other side, it was established ground up and despite rigorous cleaning efforts while climbing, some looseness, lichen, and dirt still prevails. I liked this climb alot, though....consider it an alpine type tower adventure.

Pitch #1: Climb out of the alcove up the ramp following bolts to an overhang. Climb through this first overhang to what becomes an obvious spur or arete. Numerous short cruxes finally lead you to easier terrain to the tower top. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. 5.9, 70m.

Location 

This is located 20-30m to the right (west) of Hat Trick along the same ramp system. Find the climb in an alcove with a wide chimney ramp/arete that exits the dark alcove. A tag line has been installed on this ramp protecting the narrow traverses and to the beginning of the climb.
Rappel 3 times with a single 60m rope from the top via Cat In The Hat/ Hat Trick.

Protection 

QDs for 14 bolts and 4 fixed pitons. Assorted other small Camalots may also be desired.


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