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Magical Handhold 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Achey?
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Lynn S on Nov 10, 2010

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Easy climbing to a cruxy move, find the magical handhold for the send. Pull up onto a balancy shelf, move to a dark flake on the left.

It is interesting the whole way.


This is located one tier down from Deputy Dawg, about a 100 feet down and left. Look for the obvious, dark flake near the top of the route.


7 bolts, chain anchor.

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By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is a really fun route, but I couldn't find the magical handhold for the life of me. I think it's more like 10d without the handhold (if it exists).
By tyler dane mahaffey
From: aspen, co
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Super fun climb, super hard. I did NOT redpoint it when I climbed. The magical handhold is a fist-sized crimp that is about as big as a brick. The "magical handhold" is a match, leading to a super juggy undercling. The matching is tough, and after getting past the really draining match you have to do some dynamic moves to finish the climb. ...except to fall.

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