Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 227 votes
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose, 1969 |
Page Views: | 31,545 total · 115/month |
Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Sep 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
A quote-unquote classic... while good, I wouldn't say stellar.
P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.
Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.
Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.
Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.
Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.
P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.
Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.
Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.
Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.
Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.
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