The view from one of the bridges crossing the rive...
Magic Wood is one of Switzerland's many famous alpine bouldering areas. It is located in a forest high in the mountains next to a rushing river, and it can be an ideal spot to boulder in the summer when it's too hot almost everywhere else. However, it can also rain a lot here in the summer, though the boulders dry out surprisingly quickly even after heavy downpours.
This is an area where standards have been pushed quite a bit. There are many problems in the 8A and up range, including a couple potential 8C's. There are many easier problems for the rest of us, but I would say that in general the quality of the lines here tend to increase as the difficulties increase. The rock is high-quality granite and the problems here are typically steep, hard, and on the longish side. Furthermore, the boulders are situated on an old talus slope and generally sport poor landings that require multiple pads and spotters to make safe.
Magic Wood is easy to get to and has a great camping arrangement: there is a climber's campground right next to the boulders that charges 5CHF/night per person. The website for the camping is bodhi.ch/
. There are guidebooks available for purchase at the camping. There is also a free topo available for download at sloper.climbing.nl/pdf/MagicWo...
First get yourself to Switzerland. Zurich is a good place to fly into. Once you are in Switzerland, it is possible to take public transportation directly to the camping at Magic Wood: catch a train from anywhere in Switzerland to Thusis. Thusis has a grocery store right next to the train station where you can stock up on food and supplies. Then take the bus from Thusis to Andeer. In Andeer, switch to the bus to Juf. Ask the driver to drop you off at Schmeltzi, which is the town directly across from the camping.
If you are driving, head to Andeer, then follow the signs toward Juf. You'll see the camping on the right, a short distance before you reach the town of Ausserferrera.
From the camping, a marked trail will lead you to the boulders.
Climbing Season For the Switzerland area.
Weather station 14.0 miles from here
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