Magic Wood Bouldering

Magic Wood is one of Switzerland's many famous alpine bouldering areas. It is located in a forest high in the mountains next to a rushing river, and it can be an ideal spot to boulder in the summer when it's too hot almost everywhere else. However, it can also rain a lot here in the summer, though the boulders dry out surprisingly quickly even after heavy downpours.

This is an area where standards have been pushed quite a bit. There are many problems in the 8A and up range, including a couple potential 8C's. There are many easier problems for the rest of us, but I would say that in general the quality of the lines here tend to increase as the difficulties increase. The rock is high-quality granite and the problems here are typically steep, hard, and on the longish side. Furthermore, the boulders are situated on an old talus slope and generally sport poor landings that require multiple pads and spotters to make safe.

Magic Wood is easy to get to and has a great camping arrangement: there is a climber's campground right next to the boulders that charges 5CHF/night per person. The website for the camping is bodhi.ch/. There are guidebooks available for purchase at the camping. There is also a free topo available for download at sloper.climbing.nl/pdf/Magi….