Magic Trick  V5

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Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V5 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  doug rouse on Jan 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

On the bottom of the rock, there are several ways to get to the mantle shelf. This one is the most difficult that I am aware of. Start on the low holds (good right hand, and slopey left). Locate a half-inch X 3" wide incut for the left hand that runs horizontally approximately 16" above the starting holds. GO THERE with the left, now locate the 1/4" diagonal crimp, and go there with the right hand. From these two holds, (it is hard to just hang from them) go to the mantle shelf.

Location 

This is on the bottom of Spike Rock.

Protection 

A pad might be squeezed under your butt.