|Found In The Duffle Crag
Magic Touch, The
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Magic Touch. Note fixed pin 20' up.
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This crack route has very poor rock.
near the center of the northeast face
About 3/4 up The Magic Touch
BETA PHOTO: "The Magic Touch".
Photo by Blitzo.
Fishkiller searching for The Magic Touch.
From: Newport Beach
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a great route. It's unusual for J Tree, but you won't know that until you get right close to it and see that it is a steep, lichen dappled ramp - like a mix of Taquitz & The Needles.
The crack itself is dusty, but you'll just be using it to jam your foot. The ramp itself has solid features.
The leader I followed was able to get pro in every 6'; all solid. The R rating is wrong.
A good, full 30M+, 5.9 lead. Careful off the deck.