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2.6 Miles - Prayer Stick
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Magic Man  T 

Magic Man  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 240', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson (3/97)
Page Views: 1,051
Submitted By: A. Roberts on Feb 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The late Mike Baker proudly showing me his find.

DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE

Description 

P1. Begin with a short approach pitch up a loose right facing corner to a double bolt belay. (5.7 30')
P2. Climb up the wide corner, lieback where it gets too wide (10+ at least), or yard on an old #5 camalot, passing two bolts to a natural belay at a stance. (100')
P3. Continue up the corner passing a bolt (5.9) and pass a roof to the right (5.8) end in a cave that goes all the way through the pillar. Cool belay with views out both sides. (50')(pitches 3 & 4 can be combined)
P4. Head out of the cave continuing up the right side, angling up and left to a double bolt belay.(5.8, 35') Then scramble 25' to the summit.

Location 

Magic Man climbs the right side of the pillar. To get off, down climb back to the top anchors (25') and rap the route using two ropes.

Protection 

Double set of Camalots up to #5, with extra #3's, and #4's. I'm sure a larger cam would come in handy also, I just didn't own one at the time. Set of nuts, 1 set of small metolious or aliens.


Photos of Magic Man Slideshow Add Photo
The view out of the cave at the top of pitch 3. Th...
The view out of the cave at the top of pitch 3. Th...

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By S.Mckinna
From: Durango, CO
Feb 8, 2011

Although the cave belay is cool, we combined pitches 3 and 4. Use some long runners and you won't feel the drag! We also added a third bolt to the last belay/rap station in 2009.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 23, 2014

While this climb is on a cool feature in a great setting, I thought that only the crux pitch was high quality, with the others being on primarily crunchy rock or moving around blocky terrain and pretty forgettable. That said, the crux pitch was beautiful and burly! I wouldn't hesitate to call it a sandbag, and I rather enjoy wide cracks. The bulk of the first 1/2 hovers between baggy #3 and #4 BD; despite my best efforts to squeeze up the layback part, I had to commit to the layback, but the edge was good as were the bolts (oh, and this is way too wide for the #6 so aiding or intermediate pro isn't an option). Triple #3-#4 BD, 2 #5 BD, and 1 #6 friend below the first bolt worked great.
Thanks Scott for the new bolt up top, we replaced the webbing. One double-rope rap put us on the ground with a clean rope pull (we had 70s, but looked like 60s would work fine).