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P1. Begin with a short approach pitch up a loose right facing corner to a double bolt belay. (5.7 30')
P2. Climb up the wide corner, lieback where it gets too wide (10+ at least), or yard on a #5 and/or a #6 camalot, passing two bolts to a natural belay at a stance. (100')
P3. Continue up the corner passing a bolt (5.9) and pass a roof to the right (5.8) end in a cave that goes all the way through the pillar. Cool belay with views out both sides. (50')
P4. Head out of the cave continuing up the right side, angling up and left to a double bolt belay.(5.8, 35') Then scramble 25' to the summit.
Magic Man climbs the right side of the pillar. To get off, down climb back to the top anchors (25') and rap the route using two ropes.
Double set of Camalots up to #5, with extra #3's, and #4's. I'm sure a larger cam would come in handy also, I just didn't own one at the time. Set of nuts, 1 set of small metolious or aliens.
The view out of the cave at the top of pitch 3. Th...
From: Durango, CO
Feb 8, 2011
Although the cave belay is cool, we combined pitches 3 and 4. Use some long runners and you won't feel the drag! We also added a third bolt to the last belay/rap station in 2009.