Magic Festival  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Slapping up the subtle buttress on Magic Festival.

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Description 

The path to Tenebres snakes around through dense underbrush, thorns & gnarly cactus. Eventually the trail emerges on a small hill, revealing a bird's eye view of a spectacular, overhanging, orange buttress. Magic Festival is one of four world-class lines that breach this magnificent feature. The route is long, continuous & overhanging throughout. Fortunately it also features some of the best jugs at Margalef, making the route a classic enduro jughaul.

Begin from the dusty, sloping trail on the left-most bolt-line. Climb up through the smooth horizontal breaks to a steep swell of cobbles. Two sinker pockets lead up & right to a jumbly cobble rail. Continue right (straight up is the .13a "Escalofrios") across large knobs to another rail, then up into a short groove. Bust over the bulge to gain a subtle prow on the face. Bear-hug the prow, making big slaps between excellent pockets. A few 2-finger pockets here & there keep things interesting before reaching a marginal rest below the gray roof. Rest up, then move left to tackle the intimidating gray capping roof on small incut crimps.

Location 

Four routes climb the overhanging orange buttress. The two routes on the left share a start, and the two on the right share a start. Magic Fest is the second route from the left, sharing the left-most start with "Escalofrios" (13a), before moving right.

Protection 

11 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos of Magic Festival Slideshow

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Finishing up the steep start of Magic Festival.	Magic Festival.	Magic Festival climbs on mostly large, incut jugs,...
Magic Festival.	A big move up to one of the few 2-finger pockets.