Magic Circus 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| FA: | Madera, Butterfield, Webster |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 8, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Magic Circus P3
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Description We only climbed the 3rd pitch, but this pitch is easily 2 stars alone. It was a blast, albeit a full body struggle at times. It was still a blast. From the anchors on Del Tongo, go right until you gain the end of that ramp, and climb up the flakes to the tree. Then the fun begins, as you crawl into the belly of the beast. Going up and under the chin, is an amazing part of this climb. Beautiful fist jams keep you up in there, a flake on top of you helps you make progress up, the protection forces you deeper in. Don't grovel up this sequence, but strategically use what is at hand, and the fingertip ledge that saves you will soon be at hand. From here, you can attack it the more secure feeling way---squeeze your way out, or you can turn the 5.9 crux as an insecure lieback off of that slope-y c'head. Either way, your struggle is not quite over, as you now need to work up the 6" crack. Foot jams and fist/cupped hand jams galore. This pitch was a blast, and I will have to go do the entire route now that I know where things are located.
Protection Pitch one has a one pin anchor to get you started. Pitch 2 and 3 have 2 bolt anchors. Pitch 3 used a lot of "large" gear to tackle the infamous Wizard's Chin. Also beware of rope drag. We used #2 Camalot's on the left facing crack and large hexes. Up under the chin a #4 Camalot, and to help with rope drag, he back-cleaned partway through the "chin".
BETA PHOTO: Bright Shining Lie and Magic Circus w/o lines
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BETA PHOTO: Infamous Wizard's Chin
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A look up inside the chin from midway up a bright ...
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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 12, 2009
| The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest through the oak. This pitch does not need or accept anything larger. At least my huge gear is starting to look used, even if I hip drag it up wide routes and never place it.
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Mar 23, 2010
| The first pitch of Magic Circus is significantly down gully and to the right of the Wizards Chin. The pitch starts up a smooth left leaning ramp/dihedral with no gear at the crux. 5.10- X. I suspect there used to be knifeblades protecting the seam which have since disappeared. Above, it is chossy and loose. Consider climbing Proscenium or March of the Gummi Bears as an alternate first pitch. All three routes share the same anchor. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2011
| That first pitch looks cool! Bummer about the missing knifeblades. |
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