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 ADVANCED
Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Magic Circus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Madera, Butterfield, Webster
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 8, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Infamous Wizard's Chin

Description 

We only climbed the 3rd pitch, but this pitch is easily 2 stars alone. It was a blast, albeit a full body struggle at times. It was still a blast. From the anchors on Del Tongo, go right until you gain the end of that ramp, and climb up the flakes to the tree. Then the fun begins, as you crawl into the belly of the beast. Going up and under the chin, is an amazing part of this climb. Beautiful fist jams keep you up in there, a flake on top of you helps you make progress up, the protection forces you deeper in. Don't grovel up this sequence, but strategically use what is at hand, and the fingertip ledge that saves you will soon be at hand. From here, you can attack it the more secure feeling way---squeeze your way out, or you can turn the 5.9 crux as an insecure lieback off of that slope-y c'head. Either way, your struggle is not quite over, as you now need to work up the 6" crack. Foot jams and fist/cupped hand jams galore. This pitch was a blast, and I will have to go do the entire route now that I know where things are located.

Protection 

Pitch one has a one pin anchor to get you started. Pitch 2 and 3 have 2 bolt anchors. Pitch 3 used a lot of "large" gear to tackle the infamous Wizard's Chin. Also beware of rope drag. We used #2 Camalot's on the left facing crack and large hexes. Up under the chin a #4 Camalot, and to help with rope drag, he back-cleaned partway through the "chin".


Photos of Magic Circus Slideshow Add Photo
Magic Circus P3
BETA PHOTO: Magic Circus P3
Bright Shining Lie and Magic Circus w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Bright Shining Lie and Magic Circus w/o lines
A look up inside the chin from midway up a bright ...
A look up inside the chin from midway up a bright ...

Comments on Magic Circus Add Comment
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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 12, 2009

The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest through the oak. This pitch does not need or accept anything larger. At least my huge gear is starting to look used, even if I hip drag it up wide routes and never place it.

SN
By bheller
From: SL UT
Mar 23, 2010

The first pitch of Magic Circus is significantly down gully and to the right of the Wizards Chin. The pitch starts up a smooth left leaning ramp/dihedral with no gear at the crux. 5.10- X. I suspect there used to be knifeblades protecting the seam which have since disappeared. Above, it is chossy and loose. Consider climbing Proscenium or March of the Gummi Bears as an alternate first pitch. All three routes share the same anchor.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

That first pitch looks cool! Bummer about the missing knifeblades.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

There are now 3 bomber bolts on the ramp (shared with original gummi line?), so the crux is no longer X but its certainly harder than 5.9. Above the bolts is run-out (topo in Ruckman shows 5.8 R) but I didn't find it too chossy or loose. The anchor has bolts now too and you can get down with a 60m rope.