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Magic Carpet Ride 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, John Aughinbaugh, Jack Roberts 1998
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on May 28, 2005
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Kevin Murphy on the upper half.

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  • Description 

    Magic Carpet Ride is a little-climbed sport route just left of the first pitch of Vertigo. I didn't even know it existed until a few months ago when I first saw the bolts. The climbing is sustained at the 5.10 level with a very hard crux move over a bulge. It's a bit green, but the rock is solid, and the moves are varied.

    Start up the 5.6 variation left of the usual start to Vertigo. Clip a bolt and make a difficult traverse left on the wall with bad hands. The crux is at the 2nd bolt. I was unable to make this move (following the pitch), although I could reach a good but painful crimp that in stronger hands might be the key. An easier variation involves stepping down, moving left, reaching easily over the bulge, and then stepping over the bulge with difficulty using small crimps. That way might be 11a, and would be leadable using the existing crux bolt, but with a small swing potential.

    Above the crux, climb easily to a ceiling and clip a bolt over the lip. This bolt is to protect the second. If you're climbing with a single rope, you'll want at least a draw plus a long sling. Traverse right to a bit of a prow and another bolt, pull over the ceiling, and clip. You can reach down and unclip the bolt below to reduce rope drag. Sustained 5.10 face climbing leads past several more bolts to easier ground and a slab. The second pitch of Vertigo converges to this same point. Get some gear to protect your second and then either continue to the top of Vertigo P2 if you have 2 ropes or traverse straight left to the Vertigo rap anchors.


    Protection 

    9 bolts plus the anchors. 2 long slings or double ropes. Double ropes to rappel from the top of P2 of Vertigo, or one rope to rappel from the middle Vertigo rappel anchor to the left. Bring a 0.75 Camalot to protect the second above the last bolt, and a few more pieces if you traverse to the anchors on the left. The traverse is not real hard, but a fall directly onto the anchors would be pretty serious.



    Photos of Magic Carpet Ride Slideshow Add Photo
    Kevin Murphy preparing to grapple with the crux.
    Kevin Murphy preparing to grapple with the crux.
    Kevin Murphy unclipping the fourth bolt which reduces rope drag.
    Kevin Murphy unclipping the fourth bolt which redu...
    Comments on Magic Carpet Ride Add Comment
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    By Joseph P. Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jan 16, 2010
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    Probably a seldom done line as we found no chalk or signs of recent activity. The crux (i.e., at the third bolt not the second as written up above) is deceptive on sight, but is a real treat once cracked. Some poor rock in a few spots detracts from the overall quality (e.g., I pulled a hand sized under cling flake off at the start of the crux sending me for an unexpected ride).

    On my RP go I opted to skip the fourth bolt and just go directly to the fifth. The top has a nice stretch of unrelenting 5.10 climbing that keeps your attention.