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Magic Bus

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Magic Bus  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.15337, -115.43547 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,347
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Scale is an interesting thing that, without human ...

Description 

The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].


Getting There 

To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.


Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Bus:
Neon Sunset   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Technicolor Sunrise   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Blonde Dwarf   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Electric Koolaid   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Queasy Sunrise   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Magic Bus

Featured Route For Magic Bus
Queasy Sunrise between Technicolor Sunrise and Ken Queasy.

Queasy Sunrise 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Bus
Crux is low on the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Magic Bus Slideshow Add Photo
Second Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: Second Pullout Overview
Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.
Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.
the magic bus on a busy day
the magic bus on a busy day
Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus
Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus
The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks on a winter's day. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks ...
My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Magic Bus...
My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Mag...
Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Koolaid (right).
Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Kool...
E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.
E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.
The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parking area.  Approach via a gully and slabs coming in from the left or the right. Coming in from the left is easier.
BETA PHOTO: The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parki...
Magic Bus.  October 2010.
Magic Bus. October 2010.
Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidigera).
Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidig...
Magic Bus
Magic Bus

Comments on Magic Bus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004
The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall.
By Woody Stark
Apr 17, 2004
I believe "Electric Koolaid" has the only correct rating on this face. The rest should be dropped a point. I've been there twice and very much enjoyed it. It's a good place to spend a cold and windy day; it may be crowded though.
By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
We also felt that the ratings were a bit soft here, but still fun
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
Climbed the three sport 5.8s. Not one of which was a true rating. I agree that all three should be dropped to 5.7s. However, they are fun climbs with bomber holds.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
On 3/3/10- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 23 pro bolts and 8 anchor bolts, and equipped all the new anchors with mussy hooks. See individual routes for details.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011
This is a very nice crag, and Im kind of bummed I hadnt been here before to climb. All the routes are good fun with fun movement. The lot are better than anything at the grade at Panty Wall or the Corridor...