The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.
[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].
To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Magic Bus
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Bus:
Neon Sunset 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Magic Bus
Technicolor Sunrise 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
: Red Rock
: ... : Magic Bus
To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site. From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature. Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing 4 bolts to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and ins...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Second Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
the magic bus on a busy day
The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks ...
Scale is an interesting thing that, without human ...
Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidig...
My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Mag...
Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.
E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.
Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus
Magic Bus. October 2010.
Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Kool...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004
The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall.
|By Woody Stark|
Apr 17, 2004
I believe "Electric Koolaid" has the only correct rating on this face. The rest should be dropped a point. I've been there twice and very much enjoyed it. It's a good place to spend a cold and windy day; it may be crowded though.
|By Casey Flynn|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
We also felt that the ratings were a bit soft here, but still fun
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
Climbed the three sport 5.8s. Not one of which was a true rating. I agree that all three should be dropped to 5.7s. However, they are fun climbs with bomber holds.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
On 3/3/10- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 23 pro bolts and 8 anchor bolts, and equipped all the new anchors with mussy hooks. See individual routes for details.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011
This is a very nice crag, and Im kind of bummed I hadnt been here before to climb. All the routes are good fun with fun movement. The lot are better than anything at the grade at Panty Wall or the Corridor...