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 ADVANCED
Buck's Bar Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adhesion TR 
Amazing Chimney TR 
Awful Width TR 
Bat Crack Left T,TR 
Bat Crack Right TR 
Bat Roof T,TR 
Bat Roof Direct TR 
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 
Candy Corn Boulder T 
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 
Dan's Delight T,TR 
Dinkum T,TR 
Drastical T 
Dreamer TR 
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse T 
Fingerprint TR 
Fly or Die TR 
Great Chimney TR 
Khazad Arete TR 
Knob Job TR 
Lap Dancing TR 
Live and Learn T 
Magic Beans T 
Mangler T,TR 
Nightmare TR 
Palm Beach TR 
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 
Pod, The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Squeeze Cheeze TR 
Test Piece T,TR 
Training Pants T,TR 
Triscuit Rock TR 
Unconquerable T,TR 
Unconquerable-Tunnel Through T 
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 

Magic Beans 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Apr 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: John hops up the Magic Beans.

Description 

Crux is the mantel/pull onto the first knob. Pretty cool and then some more nice moves to the ledge.

Location 

Starts at the base of the chimney downhill and right of Dinkum Crack. Mantel/pull out onto the knobs on the face up and right. hence straight up to a ledge, then up to the top of the cliff. Avoid any chimney movement. Two bolts are at the top for a top rope.

Protection 

top rope, but frequently free soloed.


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By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route gets more interesting if you do the knobs without the left edge, especially the pull right onto the knobs - hard 10s