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Magellanic Cloud 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, 1980s
Page Views: 1,635
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...


Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge.

Wonderful climbing on great rock.


Gear to #3 Camalot

Photos of Magellanic Cloud Slideshow Add Photo
Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and facing annoying rope drag.  Photo by AJ Burch.
Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and fac...
Side view of Magellanic Cloud
BETA PHOTO: Side view of Magellanic Cloud
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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 12, 2007

I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 10, 2008

you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This route has in my opinion a totally sketchy anchor at the top. There is one bolt which is of a style I have not seen before, and the other anchor point is a sling around a column that is now entirely cracked through at the top. I built my own anchor and only used the existing anchor to rap off of. I recommend bringing enough gear on this route to build your own top rope anchor.

By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A #4 camalot (or maybe something a little bigger) with an extender is great for protecting the roof for the traverse, although it requires you to downclimb just a little afterwards. Once I got the piece in with a double length sling, felt totally comfortable going for the traverse, which was a lot easier than I initially thought it was gonna be.

By Justin.Trayford
Oct 1, 2013

I found this sketchy. Onsite it or don't do it.