Madness  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1400 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987 Season:  summer-fall Submitted By:  Dru on Aug 14, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.

Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.

Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.

Location 

Rightmost dihedral on the SE face.

Protection 

Full rack of nuts, heavy on the small to RP size, and a moderate amount of cams. Long slings may help with rope drag.