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Yak Peak
Select Route:
Beckey route/Speedway 
East Face Cracks 
Hole in My Heaven 
Madness 
Porcelain Chicken 
Reality Check 
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World 
Southwest Gully 
West Ridge 
Yak Check 
Yak Crack 

Madness 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: Dru on Aug 14, 2009
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Description 

A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.

Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.

Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.


Location 

Rightmost dihedral on the SE face.


Protection 

Full rack of nuts, heavy on the small to RP size, and a moderate amount of cams. Long slings may help with rope drag.



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