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Made to be Broken 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Joe French, 2003
Season: All (if you can handle the heat
Page Views: 4,014
Submitted By: Gaar on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Made to be Broken starts in the center of the Carb...

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Description 

Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts

Protection 

10-12 draws and one 70m rope....A 60m rope will work but is cutting it CLOSE


Photos of Made to be Broken Slideshow Add Photo
The third pitch of Made to be Broken.
The third pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
The second pitch of Made to be Broken.
The second pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
Mark Ferguson on the sharp end.
Mark Ferguson on the sharp end.

Comments on Made to be Broken Add Comment
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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 8, 2008

PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease

Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.

You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.

This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader before hopping on this.

Cool summit.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
May 1, 2010

What makes this a PG-13?
By Alec
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The name says it all. Take the typical Zion free climbing experience and apply it to sport climbing. This isn't your typical sport route, there are 10+ foot runouts (exciting but not unreasonable) on sharp slabby stone with often suspect holds. We didn't break anything but were pretty cautious about what we pulled/stepped on.

The rap stations are in good shape, with new bolts and redundant chain/links. Be careful if you do double raps as the route wanders a bit and may require a bunch of swinging around to get to the next station.

The climbing tends to get easier and the rock poorer the higher you get. It's solid 5.10+ with perhaps a couple harder short bouldery cruxes. The crux may be the first few moves.

This is an excellent route with a nice variety of steep pulling, technical face climbing and challenging slabs. Kudos to the first ascent party for all their work!
By paulmadry
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I think there is nothing pg13 about this route. Maybe feels pg at the beginning of second pitch (only if you worry that sandstone bolts are iffy, because you are above first bolt). Fun route to take your mind of protection in Zion.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Mar 10, 2012

I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge.

A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13.
By Joe Stern
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappelled, so maybe we had a bit of extra stretch, but I don't remember anything even close to the ends.

Fun climbing with a pretty mellow approach and a unique route for Zion. Felt kind of like a Red Rocks multi-pitch sport route but with a distinctly Zion flavor. Double roofs/bulges on P3 were my favorite part.

By drock3
Nov 12, 2013

Super fun route. Went out expecting a nice relaxed day of sport climbing. The route was a bit more taxing than expected. Still a great day.

In regards to the PG13. I'm on the fence. I don't think it's PG13 because of bolt spacing in general, but pitches 2 and 3 involved pulling pretty hard moves right off the anchors. This resulted in having this "holy shit don't FF2" feeling for a bit. In reality the 1st bolt of the pitches weren't far up so a FF2 wasn't a real concern. The fall in between the 1st and 2nd bolts would not be much more pleasant however. It just created a tense feeling for climber and belayer for the first 15 feet of each pitch. The rest of the climbing was perfectly protected.

In regards to the grade. I think anywhere else this would be 10+ without much discussion. I think the reason it feels harder is because of the rock quality. Everything feels like it's going to break. All of the slabby feet feel like sand (because well, they are!), so you never feel comfy. I don't think the grade should change, but going into it expecting to have 400ft of legit climbing.

70M rope made for super comfy raps. took no more than 15 min to get down.