Made to be Broken 5.10+ PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Joe French, 2003 |
| Season: | All (if you can handle the heat |
| Submitted By: | Gaar on May 26, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Made to be Broken starts in the center of the Carb...
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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts
Protection 10-12 draws and one 70m rope....A 60m rope will work but is cutting it CLOSE
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
| The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
| The second pitch of Made to be Broken.
| The third pitch of Made to be Broken.
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| Comments on Made to be Broken |
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By Brendan N. (grayhghost) From: Salt Lake City, Utah Dec 8, 2008
| PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times. You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag. This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader before hopping on this. Cool summit. |
By Austin Baird From: SLC, Utah May 1, 2010
| What makes this a PG-13? |
By Alec Apr 18, 2011 rating: 5.10+
| The name says it all. Take the typical Zion free climbing experience and apply it to sport climbing. This isn't your typical sport route, there are 10+ foot runouts (exciting but not unreasonable) on sharp slabby stone with often suspect holds. We didn't break anything but were pretty cautious about what we pulled/stepped on. The rap stations are in good shape, with new bolts and redundant chain/links. Be careful if you do double raps as the route wanders a bit and may require a bunch of swinging around to get to the next station. The climbing tends to get easier and the rock poorer the higher you get. It's solid 5.10+ with perhaps a couple harder short bouldery cruxes. The crux may be the first few moves. This is an excellent route with a nice variety of steep pulling, technical face climbing and challenging slabs. Kudos to the first ascent party for all their work! |
By paulmadry Oct 24, 2011 rating: 5.10+
| I think there is nothing pg13 about this route. Maybe feels pg at the beginning of second pitch (only if you worry that sandstone bolts are iffy, because you are above first bolt). Fun route to take your mind of protection in Zion. |
By stevecurtis From: Petaluma California Mar 10, 2012
| I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge. A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13. |
By Joe Stern Apr 1, 2013 rating: 5.11-
| As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing. Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move. Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappelled, so maybe we had a bit of extra stretch, but I don't remember anything even close to the ends. Fun climbing with a pretty mellow approach and a unique route for Zion. Felt kind of like a Red Rocks multi-pitch sport route but with a distinctly Zion flavor. Double roofs/bulges on P3 were my favorite part. |
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