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Made in The Shade 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Munson
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: ---- on May 13, 2012
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South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Made in the Shade is a fun pitch, but I wouldn't recommend it if you strongly dislike manufactured holds. Be prepared for a series of glued on handle bars.

The beginning of the pitch travels up a crack and then traverses left out the roof. Make long pumpy moves between these holds and then get ready to bear down for a lockoff crux at the eighth bolt. Natural dinner plate jugs take you to the anchor.


Location 

Travels up the left side of the main cave at Area 51. Begins in a corner crack feature.


Protection 

9 bolts + anchor



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By Sam Stephens
Sep 11, 2013

I'll respectfully disagree with the criticism of this route. You come to area 51, you better know you're getting some glued on holds. That being said, the climbing is fun, continuous and yes fairly straight forward. Enjoy it for what it is and you'll have a great time on it. Leave your ethics at the door if you're planning on climbing here, or half the meadow for that matter

By ----
Sep 12, 2013

You know, I unsuccessfully attempted to delete this description a few months ago. Oh well, I changed a few things in it today. Hopefully it's a little less biased.

By AndyJohnson
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

I am a little conflicted about this route. I can't rationally reconcile my belief that the glued handlebars are unethical and set a disturbing precedent with my feeling of complete joy while making the moves. I give the climbing 4 stars, but the route significantly less praise given its unnatural creation.

Also, if either the detached flake or the marginally-chocked block at the start of the route fall out, it is going to be a bad day for someone. You can make it past the flake without touching it, but I needed to pull down gently on the block to get past it. Bring 3 draws for the last bolt and anchor; the anchor has open shuts.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 31, 2013

I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If you don't like manufactured routes, get on The Project or Next Time, both very quality too.