A fun route in a beautiful spot, up past Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon. Like it's twin route Ambulance Ride, the first few pitches are not so hot, but the upper pitches are awesome and more make up for it. The first 1-4 pitches can be linked with a 70m rope into one loooong, not-that-great pitch with rope drag. However you get there, the fun now begins, with great climbing and solid rock above. The views of Earth Angel and Brins Mesa are spectacular.
Pitch(es) 1-4: Scramble & climb up and right to a belay at the base of a nice off-width. There are several variations to this pitch(es). I recommend finding the path of least resistance and blasting through it using sparse pro & long runners. However you start, just make sure you belay at the base of the off-width.
Pitch 2(5): Up the OW (5.8 or 5.9) then continue up the corner to a nice belay ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3 (6): continue up the corner corner via a sweet finger crack on great rock(5.10-). Keep climbing past a loose block on a ledge, then thru the large, intimidating looking roof (5.10-) to a belay above. The roof is not nearly as hard as it looks.
Pitch 4 (7): Continue up the corner system via an easy chimney (5.5).
To get down rappel the route with 2 ropes.
Located just up-canyon from Earth Angel. Approach as for Earth Angel. About 50 yards before reaching the lowest part of the Earth Angel formation, head up & left, out of the gully, eventually ending up in the next gully left. Bushwhack up this to the base of the alcove, then head left on a long ledge system. The last rappel anchors can be seen from this ledge.
I recommend: 1 set of nuts, a double set of cams from from tight fingers thru #3 camalot, a single #4 camalot, plus one big cam. Several runners are helpful.
|By A. Frost|
Mar 16, 2011
Warning: Do NOT follow approach beta for this or any route in Mormon Canyon (besides Earth Angel) as described in Bloom's Castles in the Sand.
|By thomas herring|
From: flagstaff, az
Mar 19, 2014
Not sure if we went the right way for the first two pitches, but I thought they were quality and fun for "choss" pithces. We climbed up to the visible rap anchors for pitch 1 via loose rock to sweet #1 crack. Pith 2 out and left from the belay #3 overhaging crack/chimney to easy stem roof. We didnt bring anything big so ended up traversing left on ledge and up #3 crack to squeeze to a ledge traverse out right and up onto unprotected sweet face climbing to the main ledge below the crux. Seemed like many options to get there. The crux pitch might be my favorite pitch in sedona, the exposure on the roof is awesome!
|By Ryan Z|
Apr 6, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I didn't notice any obvious variations on the first pitch. Or the nasty climbing being 1-4 pitches. But that could have just been how we did it.
P1 - 40 feet of junk, ledge, 60 feet of junk, ledge, 50 ft of sweet thin hands, bolted belay 5.9+ (~150ft)
P2 - Move left into a corner, stem and hand jam up and through a chimney roof thing. Followed by some 5.8 OW. Not the best rock on the OW. Gear belay below a roof 5.9 (~100ft)
P3 - Jam out the roof with lots of feet. Pass a ledge and begin 60 feet of amazing fingers on great rock. Gear belay below another roof 5.10- (~130ft)
P4 - Bust out the fingers roof with great feet to a hand and finger crack that pinches to a seam. Move onto the petina face and hope shit doesn't break on you. Climb to a tree belay 5.10- (~100ft)
P5 - Easy chimney and blocky stuff to the top. 5.4 (~60ft).
Descent - (1) 60m rope from top to the tree then (2) 60m ropes get you down in 3 rappels.
I thought this route is pretty sustained and given the rock quality is not inspiring in a handful of sections this would not be a route for a new 5.10 leader.