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The Precipice
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Unsorted Routes:

Madame Dubois Wild Ride 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,193
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

This line starts either as a striaght up (harder) or from the right, it is a little scary to lead.

It has some fun moves and a hidden hold that, if you miss it, ups the grade up at least 2 number grades.

Location 

Left of Recollections of Pacifica and Wafer Step.

Protection 

Spaced more than I like, don't forget to clip the piton!


Comments on Madame Dubois Wild Ride Add Comment
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By afh
From: Keene Valley, NY
Dec 8, 2009

tricams are pretty helpful for protecting the last 20 feet on the arete. just pop 'em in the jugs. jugs doubling as protection, god i love acadia.
By Derek Doucet
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route is actually called "Madam Labois' Troubled Lunge".
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Agree with Derek: unless we're talking about a different route, the name is "Madam Labois' Troubled Lunge".

Rating: 5.8? No chance. WAY easier than Trotsky or Old Town. Only a little more difficult than Wafer Step, if at all.

Gear: a little discontinuous, but hardly spaced out. I don't think I was ever more than a few feet from my last piece.