|The Moore Wall
Start off with a HARD roof problem to a thin face. From there is sweet face climbing on small crimp and side pulls. Nice red point crux awaits towards the end.
The bolted line between Of Mice and Men and the big corner system called The Passage.
All bolts to bolted anchor. I Recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 19, 2010
Also works if you're tall enough to clip the 1st bolt and incredibly burly enough to get through the boulder problem that gets you to the 2nd clip.
Another one of those 11s with a V-hard start, frighteningly committing if you don't stick clip. The upper section might be 4 stars but the bottom sucks dongs, I agree something might have given to gravity.
Aug 19, 2010
The rating in the book says 11b but I think is more like 11+ at the start. Compared to Ray of Light, Mad Man is harder at the start for sure. With both hands lie backing with a knee bar on the same slopey hold then throw for a tiny crimp didn't feel like 5.11 to me(maybe a hold broke off at the start?). If you cant figure out the start, I suggest pulling on the first two draws and enjoy the rest of the climb (its worth it).
Jul 27, 2011
Another option for the start is to clip the second bolt then use the cracks out right and traverse in. Not easy moves but felt about right for the grade.
|By Martin Berzins|
Feb 18, 2013
The start is 11+ for sure and is good "old-school" 5.11 sandbag.