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The Moore Wall
Select Route:
Don't Tell Jonny S 
Free Passage T 
Mad Man of the Uinta's S 
Of Mice and Men T 
Passage, The T 
Paul's Route S 
Ray of Light S 
Tequila T,S 
Wish You Were Here S 

Mad Man of the Uinta's 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Paul Moore, Mark Nakada. Summer 98
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: Fett on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Right of the crack

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Start off with a HARD roof problem to a thin face. From there is sweet face climbing on small crimp and side pulls. Nice red point crux awaits towards the end.


The bolted line between Of Mice and Men and the big corner system called The Passage.


All bolts to bolted anchor. I Recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 19, 2010

Also works if you're tall enough to clip the 1st bolt and incredibly burly enough to get through the boulder problem that gets you to the 2nd clip.
Another one of those 11s with a V-hard start, frighteningly committing if you don't stick clip. The upper section might be 4 stars but the bottom sucks dongs, I agree something might have given to gravity.
By Fett
Aug 19, 2010

The rating in the book says 11b but I think is more like 11+ at the start. Compared to Ray of Light, Mad Man is harder at the start for sure. With both hands lie backing with a knee bar on the same slopey hold then throw for a tiny crimp didn't feel like 5.11 to me(maybe a hold broke off at the start?). If you cant figure out the start, I suggest pulling on the first two draws and enjoy the rest of the climb (its worth it).
By pawilkes
Jul 27, 2011

Another option for the start is to clip the second bolt then use the cracks out right and traverse in. Not easy moves but felt about right for the grade.
By Martin Berzins
Feb 18, 2013

The start is 11+ for sure and is good "old-school" 5.11 sandbag.
Classic route.
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