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The Moore Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Don't Tell Jonny S 
Free Passage T 
Mad Man of the Uinta's S 
Of Mice and Men T 
Passage, The T 
Paul's Route S 
Ray of Light S 
Tequila T,S 
Wish You Were Here S 

Mad Man of the Uinta's 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Paul Moore, Mark Nakada. Summer 98
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,145
Submitted By: Fett on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Right of the crack

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Start off with a HARD roof problem to a thin face. From there is sweet face climbing on small crimp and side pulls. Nice red point crux awaits towards the end.


The bolted line between Of Mice and Men and the big corner system called The Passage.


All bolts to bolted anchor. I Recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I highly recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt to avoid a nasty swing under the roof after blowing the opening moves. The start is awkward, burly and out of character with the rest of the route. V3 to fun 5.11 thin face.
By Fett
Aug 19, 2010

The rating in the book says 11b but I think is more like 11+ at the start. Compared to Ray of Light, Mad Man is harder at the start for sure. With both hands lie backing with a knee bar on the same slopey hold then throw for a tiny crimp didn't feel like 5.11 to me(maybe a hold broke off at the start?). If you cant figure out the start, I suggest pulling on the first two draws and enjoy the rest of the climb (its worth it).
By pawilkes
Jul 27, 2011

Another option for the start is to clip the second bolt then use the cracks out right and traverse in. Not easy moves but felt about right for the grade.
By Martin Berzins
Feb 18, 2013

The start is 11+ for sure and is good "old-school" 5.11 sandbag.
Classic route.

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