Mad Hatter 5.12d
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Midway up the second pitch of Mad Hatter.
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Slabby start, to a harder than it looks section through the small roof. Then angles right to rejoin Zee Wicked Witch and heads to the Jack Daniel's rest. After the rest, clip the first bolt shared by Zee Wicked then bust left through a steep section to the anchors. To the mid anchors is a good 12b.
Location Between Rubber Mission and Zee Wicked Witch.
Protection Bolts 15 of them, 8 to the halfway anchors. Use draws until the final run to save the leaver biners at the top and midway anchors. Skip the bolts just left and right of the halfway anchors. They aren't needed and will increase rope drag. Use a 70m rope or lower from the mid anchors.
By GummyBears Nov 12, 2009
| 3rd hanger is missing now. Needs to be redrilled as bolt is too small. |
By DisturbingThePeace From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 12, 2011
| I installed a new bolt to replace the stud with the missing hanger this past weekend. |
By Pat Mac From: Tempe Jul 30, 2012 rating: 5.12c/d
| Another classic on the tower. This route revolves around the crux sequence at the beginning. About three moves after the slab on smaller half pad pockets. Just make it to the Jack Daniels rest and it's over. |
By Pinklebear Sep 23, 2012
| The rope drag when doing this as one pitch is, well, a drag, I know. I had wanted it to go straight up above the belay or come in from the left in the beige streak, but it seemed like a huge hollow plate there and I gave up. Perhaps it's worth a second look, but it's been 20 years now so my memory of the rock quality is vague at best. |
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