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Mad Cow Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Mad Cow Wall
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Anthrax Letters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bandit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Daddy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Black Plague S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bubbles S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Chuckwagon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cutter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Die Hardral S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ebola S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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John Waynes Knee S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mad Cow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rabid Dale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rabid Dave S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rattlesnake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shakka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 5.12b S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 5.12b (2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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West Wasn't Won on Salad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 5,232 ft |
| GPS: |
32.2357, -104.7528 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 26,171 total · 132/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
The Mad Cow Wall is arguably the best cliff at LCC, and certainly the best chunk of limestone in New Mexico. The wall stretches for several hundred yards, featuring loads of stellar lines. Routes range in steepness from just past vertical, up to "very steep", and tend to be longer than the routes at other LCC cliffs. Visiting hardmen will want to take a stab at the stunning double black streak of "Black Plague". However, this cliff really shines in the lower 5.12 grades.
This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.
This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.
Getting There
From the Violence Wall, continue SE along the cliff base past a large cave (I assume this is the "Hermit Cave", which is off-limits to climbing) with several interesting artifacts. The first few routes ascend super steep orange tiers. To get oriented, find the right-leaning, overhanging bolted dihedral of "The West Wasn't Won on A Salad".
Routes
Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers RIGHT TO LEFT (Thanks DTP!).
(01) Bubbles (5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(04) Rawhide (5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(05) Chuckwagon (5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad (5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(09) Rattlesnake (5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale (5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague (5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy (5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave (5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral (5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(16) Shakka (5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(17) Cutter (5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow (5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?
(01) Bubbles (5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(04) Rawhide (5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(05) Chuckwagon (5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad (5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(09) Rattlesnake (5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale (5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague (5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy (5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave (5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral (5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(16) Shakka (5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(17) Cutter (5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow (5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?
Classic Climbing Routes at Mad Cow Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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