Mad Calf Disease
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This route was stumbled upon when we set out to climb the striking dihedral of Old Habits Die Hard. Turns out, according to a post, this is another Steve Habovstak line -- I suspect that Steve might be right up there in the number of bolts he's drilled in BCC. The second pitch slab is well worth the walk and somewhat ugly approach pitch: good position, solid rock, and interesting climbing.
The first pitch (5.9) begins about 50 feet left of the Old Habits dihedral, in a large, bush and tree-infested corner. This somewhat ugly pitch can be easily avoided by doing the first pitch of Old Habits, which is easier but more enjoyable. For Mad Calf, bushwhack through the vegetation and 4th class up the corner for 60 feet until possible to move right to a Lego-like face protected by two bolts. Gingerly work up the face (some of the Legos are loose) to a two-bolt hanging stance. Rather than belaying at the hanging stance, a more comfortable belay can be established to the right from a small footstance at the base of the roof (requires at least one 3.5-4 inch cam); this is also the belay for Old Habits and Cost of Business.
The money pitch begins by turning the roof just left of the hanging stance. Avoiding the Old Habits dihedral to the left, climb past 5 bolts to a ledge, then past 3 more to the top and anchors. The crux comes at the 4th bolt, and varies by a letter grade or two depending on whether you stay “in-line” (if in-line, I’d say 11c). You’ll probably want to place gear to protect the move over the roof and between the last 3 bolts. (Date of FA from rc.com).
Follow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge from which Starstruck begins, walk east on the ledge (passing under Starstruck, Cost of Business, and Old Habits Die Hard), which soons slopes downs and narrows, until directly below the large, bush and tree infested corner leading to the first pitch. If you get to some obvious bolt lines (Red Gorilla and Nimbus), you've gone about 50 feet too far. See the photo-topo on the Kiss the Sky page.
Draws and gear to 1.5 inches; take a 3.5-4 inch cam for the Old Habits belay. Can make one long rappel (two 60 meter ropes) or two rappels (stopping at the hanging stance) to get back to the ledge system.
|Comments on Mad Calf Disease
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Don't let the dirty approach pitch dissuade you from the climb since the second pitch is fantastic thin edging. I liked this pitch more than any other on the crag. Belay as John describes down a bit at a better stance. Go up, clip the two bolt belay with a long sling, turn the roof (small cam about 0.4 to 0.5 inch protects very well), clip a line of bolts - the crux is very short but delicate after bolt 3 - climb to a ledge and finish (one more piece of gear 0.5 to .075 range plus bolts). The holds pushed us slightly right to laying off an arete at the crux - 5.11ish for a move.
|By Kyle Blase|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 4, 2012
First ascent is Steve Habovstak. The route name is Mad Calf Disease, or maybe just Mad Calf.