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West Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien T 
Geez Louise T 
Ground Up S 
Growth Spurt T 
How Ed Lost His Mind T 
Mad Bolter T 
New Rage T 

Mad Bolter 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Giddings?, June 1990
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good thin face problem, this one sees more traffic than most 5.11s at TP because you can set a TR on it from Eds Mind.

Hard lieback moves in a seam begin about 6' up. These can be protected by a small cam or nut, which doesn't seem that good. Some might consider using a crashpad or stick clip. 2 committing moves above this piece to the first bolt. The climb stays tough past bolt #2, as you begin the climb's crux of tricky thin face/slab moves. Stay true to the line and don't move left to Eds Mind until you need to. Join How Ed Lost His Mind at the 3rd bolt, make a weird move passing an overlap (or the last hard move can be avoided by runout 5.8 on flakes to the right). Run it out to the anchor on easy low-angled slab, with an optional gear placement in the angling crack you cross.

Location 

This climb is on the S Face of West Rock (#1), just to the right of the pine tree and the routes Ground Up and 'How Ed Lost His Mind'.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You'll likely want nuts or small cams for supplemental pro, especially the 1st piece (a microcam is very useful).


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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008

I think a blue Alien saved my life getting to the first bolt.