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A good thin face problem, this one sees more traffic than most 5.11s at TP because you can set a TR on it from Eds Mind.
Hard lieback moves in a seam begin about 6' up. These can be protected by a small cam or nut, which doesn't seem that good. Some might consider using a crashpad or stick clip. 2 committing moves above this piece to the first bolt. The climb stays tough past bolt #2, as you begin the climb's crux of tricky thin face/slab moves. Stay true to the line and don't move left to Eds Mind until you need to. Join How Ed Lost His Mind at the 3rd bolt, make a weird move passing an overlap (or the last hard move can be avoided by runout 5.8 on flakes to the right). Run it out to the anchor on easy low-angled slab, with an optional gear placement in the angling crack you cross.
This climb is on the S Face of West Rock (#1), just to the right of the pine tree and the routes Ground Up and 'How Ed Lost His Mind'.
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You'll likely want nuts or small cams for supplemental pro, especially the 1st piece (a microcam is very useful).
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 7, 2008
I think a blue Alien saved my life getting to the first bolt.