Mad Bolter  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Jeff Giddings?, June 1990 Submitted By:  George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>> The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras. According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)" A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide: Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates". In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles. On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others." This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A good thin face problem, this one sees more traffic than most 5.11s at TP because you can set a TR on it from Eds Mind.

Hard lieback moves in a seam begin about 6' up. These can be protected by a small cam or nut, which doesn't seem that good. Some might consider using a crashpad or stick clip. 2 committing moves above this piece to the first bolt. The climb stays tough past bolt #2, as you begin the climb's crux of tricky thin face/slab moves. Stay true to the line and don't move left to Eds Mind until you need to. Join How Ed Lost His Mind at the 3rd bolt, make a weird move passing an overlap (or the last hard move can be avoided by runout 5.8 on flakes to the right). Run it out to the anchor on easy low-angled slab, with an optional gear placement in the angling crack you cross.

Location 

This climb is on the S Face of West Rock (#1), just to the right of the pine tree and the routes Ground Up and 'How Ed Lost His Mind'.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You'll likely want nuts or small cams for supplemental pro, especially the 1st piece (a microcam is very useful).