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Lower Grotto Wall
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Mad Arab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: L. Dawson, M. Kennedy, 1974
Page Views: 381
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jul 26, 2010
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Description 

This is the first route left of Twin Cracks. There are several interesting cruxes on this. The route starts by climbing a face to the left of Twin Cracks to a solid flake. Place gear behind the flake and make a hard move to get to a good stance (decking is a possibility if you blow that move). Continue up to the right-leaning slot through the roof that one traverses under while doing Twin Cracks. After the slot, go straight up the steep face via a hand and finger crack. The rock quality degrades slightly at the top, but there's still good gear.

This route is worth doing if others in the area are occupied, but it's not a destination climb.


Location 

This is the first route to the left of Twin Cracks.


Protection 

A standard rack will suffice; maybe doubles in the #0.75 to #2 Camalot sizes. We used a #3.5 and a #4 Camalot. Use the new bolted rappel anchor at the top to descend. A single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.



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By Lynn S
Aug 1, 2010

I talked with Lou D., and he was cool if we added a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. So as of today there is an anchor; bolts, chain and links. One 60 will get you back to the ground.

By Greg D
From: Here
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

A good route that is often overlooked. Start with face climbing, followed by an unusual leaning slot, capped by steep fingers and hands. Lots of variety. All of the difficult moves are well protected. Save a 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final headwall. One #3 Camalot is the biggest piece you might want, although other option exist where the 3 goes. Double 2s, double 1s, and light rack will do.