Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: unknown, long ago
Page Views: 3,271 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This climb is a good route on solid rock. Nice incut edges appear one after the other, and a crack offers very good pro at a relatively safe distance from the ground if you are leading. Climb up the face to reach a 1.5 meter section of crack 6m off of the ground. The crack goes from thin to fists over its length and is the distinguishing feature of the route.

After passing the crack, cling and edge your way up the arete just to the right on solid positive holds until the rock becomes jumbled and broken, then head in on a ledge and finish up the gap/slot/chimney between the Ginseng Pillar and the 2nd Pinnacle. This is a good route on good rock.

Location Suggest change

From the west side of the West bench, continue south through a gap in the rock behind the Ginseng Pillar. Go down and right (south) a few meters, keeping your eye 7 meters up the West Face of the 2nd Pinnacle, looking for a distinguishing split block with a crack in it. The route starts below, goes through, and finishes above this obvious crack.

Protection Suggest change

A light standard rack with a few nuts and cams hand-to-fist... I think. I didn't place gear though, as the climb is a good solo (even in approach shoes).

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