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 ADVANCED
Haus Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abstract Plain S 
Burning Down the Haus S 
Chainsaw T,S 
Crystal Ball S 
Dance the Magic Dance 
Dink S 
Dirty Love S 
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 
Five Nine S,TR 
Flakin' Out S 
Hostile Krainzover S 
Lichen This S 
Little Haus S 
Little Squirt S 
Macho Picasso S 
No Name S 
Not Lichen This S 
Not So Hostile Krainzover S 
Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 
Side Plate S 
Sky Pilot S 
Spine, The S,TR 
They Call Me Shorty S 
Throwin' The Drool Again S 
Top Soil S 
Torqued Blow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Macho Picasso 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: J. Sjong
Season: Late Spring through Mid Fall
Page Views: 1,732
Submitted By: CrocodiliusPontifex on Oct 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Macho Picasso.

Description 

This is a beautiful line that packs quite a wallop. Climb a short overhang to a burly dyno. One more move gets you to a bomber jug. Rest up, because then the route gets hard.

Location 

This is on Haus Rock's south side, left of Crystal Ball.

Protection 

4 bolts, one of which has a fixed draw on it.


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Macho Picasso.
Macho Picasso.

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By Pinklebear
Jul 14, 2013

Fixed draw on the last bolt is gone, but with a 1.5-draw, you can clip it low off the crystal undercling before moving into the upper crux.

Two hard boulder problems separated by a honking jug. The lower dyno can be made more manageable for short and/or weak people (i.e. me) with some jessery.

Be sure to top after your point for a solid view of the Rockies, even if you need to do a one- or two-rester!
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Fantastic route! I felt like the upper sequence past the jug was a touch harder than the deadpoint to the sloper, definately feels better with cooler temps. I left biners on the anchor for easy cleaning and also because running a rope through an anchor with just a bolt + quick link will twist your rope.