El Macho Borracho climbs out the Brennivin Roof left of the Brennivin route and above the Binge Side routes at Creekside. For full value, approach by indulging in 100 Proof (12a, 9 bolts) but traverse to the Brennivin belay ramp.
Climb above the belay on somewhat friable pegmatite and jugs to the massive, 30 foot overhang. Awesome, positive holds through the roof lead to the first midway crux. More jugs and terrific stone leave you with a wicked pump and inebriating exposure. Hang on tight until last-call, a sobering redpoint crux getting to the anchors.
Lower back to the belay. Your belayer will have to throw you some slack to pull you back in, as you fight the dizzying spins. Unclipping the last two draws on your way down will keep rope drag down.
Bring about 10 draws to climb 100 Proof . Macho has 8 bolts, currently fixed with draws. A 60m will work, but if you were so inclined to rap from the top of the route, you will need a 70m to get down.
Big thanks to Dave Montgomery for not only contributing the fine 100 Proof route, but for help and support with this one.
By Monty From: Golden, CO Jan 24, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-E6 6b
Awesome, super fun route. It's a less scary version of the Brennivin Roof! Great stone and huge jugs keep this really entertaining. One note on the rating, I'm saying 12b/c, but its no walk in the park. It's actually harder than a few 12c's in the canyon (Great Escape or Ken Tanks) but overall easier than real 12c's like Sucking My Will to Live.
For your amusement, here is a video of the FFA, edited by myself, and filmed by my wonderful woman, Kirsten. FFA of Macho Borracho:
Linking this with 100 Proof makes for a king line of a pitch (145'?) and likely the longest single pitch of its grade in the canyon. Takes some thought to keep rope drag to a mininimum including shoulder length slings and smart back-cleaning. You cannot lower back to the ground with a 70m, but rather lower twice, tramming back to the belay. Enjoy.
A project to be proud of, well done Darren. Now the work begins. Must do this route. Oct. 30, 1011. Started this project today, great ride, missed a few moves to complete a clean red point, but I'm going back Friday. After watching the video, I think I can figure out the roof crux.
Climbed this route yesterday and found that both ends of our 70m rope easily reached the ground, probably with 20ft to spare, when using the lefthand 5.10 1st pitch of Brennivin to approach. Perhaps this won't work when approaching from 100 Proof (which is a bit further left), but if Macho Borracho is your goal, a direct approach should deposit you safely on the ground when using a 70m cord. What I can't comment on, as of yet, is the rope drag.