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Macho Borracho 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D.Mabe / D.Montgomery
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,634
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jan 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Binge Side routes at Creekside, including Brennivi...
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What's On Tap 

El Macho Borracho climbs out the Brennivin Roof left of the Brennivin route and above the Binge Side routes at Creekside. For full value, approach by indulging in 100 Proof (12a, 9 bolts) but traverse to the Brennivin belay ramp.

Climb above the belay on somewhat friable pegmatite and jugs to the massive, 30 foot overhang. Awesome, positive holds through the roof lead to the first midway crux. More jugs and terrific stone leave you with a wicked pump and inebriating exposure. Hang on tight until last-call, a sobering redpoint crux getting to the anchors.

Lower back to the belay. Your belayer will have to throw you some slack to pull you back in, as you fight the dizzying spins. Unclipping the last two draws on your way down will keep rope drag down.


Pro 

Bring about 10 draws to climb 100 Proof . Macho has 8 bolts, currently fixed with draws. A 60m will work, but if you were so inclined to rap from the top of the route, you will need a 70m to get down.



Photos of Macho Borracho Slideshow Add Photo
Worked this today first time up, then watched Darren's video. I missed one key move he had on the crux roof, going back Friday.
Worked this today first time up, then watched Darr...
Self portrait, after day 2, finishing the FA of "el Macho Borracho" via rope-solo/aid. It follows the profile of the Brennivin roof (fixed line visible in top right quadrant of pic). 12/23/09.
Self portrait, after day 2, finishing the FA of "e...
Darren aiding the FA of Macho Borracho... brrrrrrr.
Darren aiding the FA of Macho Borracho... brrrrrrr...
Just above the crux getting out of the roof. <br />The photos don't do this climb justice, it looks totally different when you are on it.
Just above the crux getting out of the roof.
The p...
Comments on Macho Borracho Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2010

Big thanks to Dave Montgomery for not only contributing the fine 100 Proof route, but for help and support with this one.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome, super fun route. It's a less scary version of the Brennivin Roof! Great stone and huge jugs keep this really entertaining. One note on the rating, I'm saying 12b/c, but its no walk in the park. It's actually harder than a few 12c's in the canyon (Great Escape or Ken Tanks) but overall easier than real 12c's like Sucking My Will to Live.

For your amusement, here is a video of the FFA, edited by myself, and filmed by my wonderful woman, Kirsten. FFA of Macho Borracho:

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 25, 2010

Thanks again for putting that video together, Dave. That was a lot of fun. Excellent work! and Kirsten for her filming during her crash course in jumaring! You're tough!

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 25, 2010

Looks awesome! The ice approach looks nice as well - just how cold is it up there though this time of year?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 27, 2010

Nice work, Darren, congrats! This line looks awesome, can't wait to get on it. And I'm psyched to hear it gets some sun, we stopped by today and it seemed cooold!

By Luke Childers
Jan 28, 2010

Fun video, guys!! That looks like one sweet line, Darren!!! It's up next for me I think!!! That thing looks so classic. Thanks for your hard work, man!!

By Johny A
From: Aurora . CO
Jan 29, 2010

That was fun watching. I'll be on the red carpet for the next D.M. release! See ya. P.S.-good one on ya fer da tunes.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 12, 2010

Linking this with 100 Proof makes for a king line of a pitch (145'?) and likely the longest single pitch of its grade in the canyon. Takes some thought to keep rope drag to a mininimum including shoulder length slings and smart back-cleaning. You cannot lower back to the ground with a 70m, but rather lower twice, tramming back to the belay. Enjoy.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Oct 25, 2011

A project to be proud of, well done Darren. Now the work begins. Must do this route.
Oct. 30, 1011.
Started this project today, great ride, missed a few moves to complete a clean red point, but I'm going back Friday. After watching the video, I think I can figure out the roof crux.

By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 23, 2012

Climbed this route yesterday and found that both ends of our 70m rope easily reached the ground, probably with 20ft to spare, when using the lefthand 5.10 1st pitch of Brennivin to approach. Perhaps this won't work when approaching from 100 Proof (which is a bit further left), but if Macho Borracho is your goal, a direct approach should deposit you safely on the ground when using a 70m cord. What I can't comment on, as of yet, is the rope drag.