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 ADVANCED
Alcatraz Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdman T,S 
Hoosgal T 
Machinegun S 
Scarface T 
Solitary S,TR 

Machinegun 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Schroeder
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: Almonzo on Jan 1, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Close up of damaged left belay anchor on Machine G...

Description 

Machinegun is the right-most climb on Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This route is a very short face climb which is not that interesting. Climbaz.com recommends carrying extra gear, but this is pretty unnecessary.


Protection 

Two bolts, plus chains.



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By Vincent Greene
Mar 14, 2004

First ascent was Kurt Schroeder

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 4, 2004

I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com

By JayCap
Aug 27, 2004

Gear Alert

Looks like someone started to chop the cold shut for the left-hand chains. It is scarred and loose.

By Vincent Greene
Aug 27, 2004

I think the beat-up left belay bolt is the result of rock fall. There is other evidence on and below the route (rock shards) that there has been some rock fall activity here. Be careful out there.