Machine Head  5.11c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Ted Hammond 1990 Submitted By:  lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Here's Dom on Machine Head. The section below him...

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Description 

Machine Head is a short but kick ass climb with a technical less than vertical start, a steep jug haul bulge and a scary balancy mantel finish. All in a route that is only 5 bolts long.

I recommend clipping the 2nd bolt due to an awkward clipping stance and ground fall potential, but that's your call.The first moves are like the moves you find at the bottom of many routes on Waimea.not steep but all the holds are facing weird directions.After overcoming this section you hit the jugs of the Red River Gorge like central band.And now that you are pumped, head up to the dreaded mantel finish.After working it out the grade seems reasonable but on the onsight attempt it feels hard in the grade.

They only give it one star in the guide book but I think it is worthy of full marks.

Location 

The right side of the cliff. It only goes up to the midway ledge.Locate the quick clips on the wall above the ledge. The route starts right underneath.

Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips

Photos of Machine Head Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: This is a shot of the really cool band of strange ...	The start	Pump crux.
Sylvain relaxing after the tricky start. Dreaded m...	Sylvain and Charles doing what they do best... cli...