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Here's Dom on Machine Head. The section below him...
Machine Head is a short but kick ass climb with a technical less than vertical start, a steep jug haul bulge and a scary balancy mantel finish. All in a route that is only 5 bolts long.
I recommend clipping the 2nd bolt due to an awkward clipping stance and ground fall potential, but that's your call.The first moves are like the moves you find at the bottom of many routes on Waimea.not steep but all the holds are facing weird directions.After overcoming this section you hit the jugs of the Red River Gorge like central band.And now that you are pumped, head up to the dreaded mantel finish.After working it out the grade seems reasonable but on the onsight attempt it feels hard in the grade.
They only give it one star in the guide book but I think it is worthy of full marks.
The right side of the cliff. It only goes up to the midway ledge.Locate the quick clips on the wall above the ledge. The route starts right underneath.
5 bolts to quick clips
BETA PHOTO: This is a shot of the really cool band of strange ...
Sylvain relaxing after the tricky start. Dreaded m...
Sylvain and Charles doing what they do best... cli...
|By Adam Conroy|
From: Cambridge, MA
Mar 6, 2010
Worked this problem today for a while, didn't send but got all the moves. That mantle finish had my heart pumping and made me feel like I really pulled off something epic.
The description nails it and its minimum 3 stars here. Will reserve whether it is 3 or 4 after I send it. :)
|By Jared LaVacque|
Apr 23, 2011
The 2nd bolt and most of the SMC hangers spin, which makes stick clipping difficult. The glue in bolts are solid. A really fun route in general.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2013
The bolts Jared mentions have been updated