Machine Gun Funk 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Matt Lloyd, bolted with help of Keith North and Jose Rodriguez |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | mlloyd on Apr 17, 2012 |
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Just exiting the crux on the FA.
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Description Climb the giant roof that is visible from the road. Start with excellent 5.11a climbing to a rest at the roof, then bust a creative, upside down, V7 boulder problem out the 15 foot roof to gain a sweet hand wrap and a jug at the lip. Climb easy terrain to the anchors 15 feet above. FYI, there are no bolts above the lip leading to the anchors (there are anchors), I may go back and add some bolts later if people insist. The fall is safe.
The routes grade may be quite subjective, if you love swinging on strap holds, this thing could be a bit on the easier side. Either way, I enjoyed putting it up, so enjoy climbing it.
Location This is the line busting through the roof, it is pretty easy to find. Use the same approach as Idiot's Roof but one route to the right (shares the first bolt).
Protection 11 QDs.
The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire.
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Ben sending.
Photo: Keith North.
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Juan climbing the juggy overhanging bottom section...
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| Comments on Machine Gun Funk |
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By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Apr 18, 2012
| Hell ya Matt, nice work, man! Can't wait to get up there and check this one out! Nice to see others putting up some routes in the canyon as well, we all appreciate it. |
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Do it.... Route is Awesome! |
By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.12d
| This line is so good, well bolted, gymnastic, and STEEP! A classic for CCC in my opinion... thanks for the work, guys. |
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 21, 2012
| Steve, I'm psyched you liked it. Thanks for the props. Nice work! |
By Jeremy Jennings
Sep 27, 2012
| So did you change the name to Machine Gun Disco, or did you change it to Machine Gun Funk? |
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 27, 2012
| No, I'm just an idiot and just said the name wrong once, and it stuck.... Damn PBR, the name of the route is Machine Gun Funk, Machine Gun Disco (I didn't know at the time... is a 12 in Indian Creek). |
By Tyler Fox
Feb 7, 2013
| This is a really fun route. Get psyched to get creative on the roof; however, don't fall past the lip. If you pull through the roof, you definitely shouldn't fall on the juggy face, but my partner decided it would be fun to jump and managed to violently swing into the wall - just a head's up. Also, plan for a little rope drag - bring some extendables. Other than that, this things super safe and super rad! |
By Mason Caiby
Feb 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c
| I think this is the coolest route at the High Wire crag. Definitely a cool problem through the roof. I think it might be soft for the grade, but I've never been good at grades. Also, there's a lot of loose rock/choss (sp?), so you're belay better be ready for some projectiles.
Sick line, sick moves. |
By Cassidy Hill
Apr 12, 2013
rating: 5.13a
| Some holds have broken out the roof on this climb. The key undercling is gone, leaving a flat, "nub" type hold. This is still useable but notably harder. Unfortunately though, the key right hand crimp towards the lip of the roof is gone, and that left nothing in its place. The climb may still go but not the way I was doing it/have seen it done and probably not at 12d. |
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