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 ADVANCED
East Car Body Canyon
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Cleaning Lady, The T 
Dirty Luck T 
Eyeless in Gaza T 
Gargling Vinegar T 
Holiday in Cambodia S 
Industrial Age, The S 
Lichen Lunch S 
Macabre Roof T 
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 
Pansy - Direct, The T 
Pansy, The S 
Scream, The T 
Spasm T 
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Tin Man S 
Two Studs T 
Whimper S 
Wimp Roof S 

Macabre Roof 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom McLeod ~ 1975
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: Cory on Aug 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Whipper on Macabre Roof.

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

This climb features beautiful double hand cracks that eventually lead up to a roof, which is split in the middle by a crack. In Sandi Epeldi's book the roof is described as "a classic boulder problem in the sky", and I'd have to agree.

Location 

This climb is located roughly in the middle of the East Carbody Canyon wall.

Protection 

This climb is very well protected and will suck up as many nuts and cams as you care to throw into it. There is a two bolt anchor on the comfortable ledge above the roof.


Photos of Macabre Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Reggie getting ready for the business . . .
Reggie getting ready for the business . . .
Reggie enjoying the twin hand cracks low on Macabre Roof.
Reggie enjoying the twin hand cracks low on Macabr...
Enjoy the ride. Roof protects well in case you need it.
Enjoy the ride. Roof protects well in case you nee...
Enjoy the double cracks.
Enjoy the double cracks.

Comments on Macabre Roof Add Comment
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By K Baumgartner
Oct 12, 2012

Route can be sewn up all the way. Long runners under the roof definitely are helpful. Throw in a few cams at the roof, find the feet, and pull it! Variety of holds, but the footwork is the tricky part. Probably wise to wear a helmet--hit my noggin a couple of times pulling out onto the roof.
By Maurice Chaunders
May 15, 2014

Like the man says...easy lead up 2 cracks to a fun and committing boulder problem, with great pro. 2 purple camalots slide in nicely in the roof crack. You can place gear above the roof, but those cracks are better for hand holds. No pro after the roof, but it's a mellow scamp up the chains.