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Cannibal Crag
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Have a Beer with Fear S 
Ma and Pa Kettle S 
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You Are What You Eat T 

Ma and Pa Kettle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Season: Any
Page Views: 2,342
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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The infamous ring bolt. The shaft that was in the...

Description 

A great route for beginners that allows climbers to practice basic mantle techniques, slab footwork, etc. with relatively easy climbing.

Note: This route is really more like 5.6, but both guides call it 5.7-.

Location 

This is the route furthest to the right as you face the WNW side of the boulder. It begins on the varnished face at the obvious left-facing crescent.

Protection 

3 bolts and a pin? to the top. Belay from the top of the boulder at a single bolt, or further back to the double bolt anchor (lots more rope drag).


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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 11, 2007

Does anyone know what the 4th 'bolt' is? It looks like a huge nail with a ring on it, but I've never seen one of these things before on a route.
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 11, 2007

It might be an old Mammut ring bolt. The route Max Flex, located on the Meat Puppets Wall (1st Pullout on the loop road) is/was equipped with these bolts.
By Steph Renfroe
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 29, 2008

That pin at the top is pretty intimidating to lower from... craziest thing I ever saw at the top of a route for sure.
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Mar 29, 2008

It is possible to 4th class down into the notch between the top of the crag and the other formation. From there it is a short scramble down to the base on the back side of the crag.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

On 5/19/10, the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced 4 bolts on this route with 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and equipped the existing anchor with mussy hooks.
By smassey
From: CO
May 20, 2010

Reading Steph's comment makes me shudder... If anyone knows what this bolt actually is, we'd love to know. (more to the point, why it would be considered legitimate protection...) It failed catastrophically after about 20 pulls with the funkness. 20 future falls?...
By smassey
From: CO
Mar 25, 2011

Apparently someone chopped the anchor on this one. Since they were ASCA mussys, it would be great if that person could put them on a route that needs them, or return them. If you could also patch the holes, that would be cool. In any case, if you go to do this route, you can set a TR anchor with #3,4 Camalots.
By dinn13
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

still no anchors for rapping off of. ended up having leader anchor into the the 3 bolt anchor at the top of the boulder (no rap rings on them) and then the second followed and cleaned the route, and both of us then walked off.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

4 bolts, no anchors that I saw (although honestly I didn't look too hard). 4th class scramble down once you get on flat ground as you keep climbing past the 4th bolt. You probably dont want to climb this one until anchors are installed..
By verticalworldtraveler
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 24, 2014

very easy to build anchor for towrope with hand size cams in horizontal crack atop route, then have the last climber easily walk off the boulder. be sure to place a few good pieces as the rock is a little suspect in places